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Quick question on oil advise and carbon blocker
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   Fishing Boats, Motors, Trailering, Q & A or Discussion

Posted by Thekid751
1/28/2018 6:14 PM
Hey guys I have a 2000 evinrude ram ficht 150.....I know I know sell it and buy a different motor lol but I had some one telling me to run xd-100 Oil and a carbon blocker in my gas. I understand the oil but I'm not sure on the carbon blocker. I'm guessing it's different from a carbon guard which is a flushing system. Is the carbon blocker something I run in everytank, or only a few tanks, or is it the same as a carbon guard? If so what brand do I use? Any help would be appriciated.
Posted by beetlespin
1/28/2018 7:10 PM
I just put Startron in my gas. Probably don’t need it. I think running good gas is the most important thing you can do
Posted by Thekid751
1/28/2018 7:14 PM
Ok thanks beetlespin I'll look into it. I just know my motor is bad about carbon buildup and it causes it not to idle right. I can change my plugs and filter and it does great for about 2 weeks then does it again.
Posted by heath423
1/28/2018 8:04 PM
Yeah everyone will tell you to sell it and get this or that. They are not the one paying for it either. 1996 Mariner here. Carbon build up is an issue
Posted by beetlespin
1/28/2018 8:26 PM
Pennzoil XLF oil seems to have less carbon buildup that Mercury oil for me.
Posted by Thekid751
1/29/2018 12:11 AM
So is yours a mercury beetlespin? Or an evinrude? Or does it matter.
Posted by beetlespin
1/29/2018 7:33 AM
I have s 250 Pro XS. I just think the Pennzoil burns cleaner.
Posted by TR20bh
1/29/2018 8:38 AM
beetlespin - 1/29/2018 7:33 AM

I have s 250 Pro XS. I just think the Pennzoil burns cleaner.


Lance, you are right! I've had 2 outboard techs tell me that Pennzoil burns cleaner. That's all I use in my OptiMax
Posted by lafae7
1/29/2018 10:38 AM
I have had a hypothesis on carbon build for many years now. What I have seen was that people lugging a big engine around usually means there is a better chance for carbon build up. I think every engine has a sweet spot when it comes to running with minimal carbon build up. It blows my mind when I see someone with a 300 hp or even a 250 hp motor only running 50 mph around the lake (except if it's a ranger because it's just doing the best it can . I think 2 stroke boat engines should run at certain rpms or higher to reduce carbon build up. I think it's the lack of back pressure on these engines at low RPMs that cause it to do this. I don't know for sure but this this is something I do while driving. If my max RPMs are 6000 RPMs then I will hit 5900/6000 RPMs atleast once for a few seconds if not longer atleast once when I go out, while I would never drive slower than 5000 RPMs when going from fishing spot to fishing spot.
Posted by lafae7
1/29/2018 10:38 AM
I have had a hypothesis on carbon build for many years now. What I have seen was that people lugging a big engine around usually means there is a better chance for carbon build up. I think every engine has a sweet spot when it comes to running with minimal carbon build up. It blows my mind when I see someone with a 300 hp or even a 250 hp motor only running 50 mph around the lake (except if it's a ranger because it's just doing the best it can . I think 2 stroke boat engines should run at certain rpms or higher to reduce carbon build up. I think it's the lack of back pressure on these engines at low RPMs that cause it to do this. I don't know for sure but this this is something I do while driving. If my max RPMs are 6000 RPMs then I will hit 5900/6000 RPMs atleast once for a few seconds if not longer atleast once when I go out, while I would never drive slower than 5000 RPMs when going from fishing spot to fishing spot.
Posted by Thekid751
1/29/2018 12:08 PM
I hear you lafea. I do agree with you however if got a 17ft vindicator with a 150 and I don't ever go under 60 any where I go. That little boat is way to much fun to haul butt in to be lugging around lol as for my rpms I stay with in 5500 rpms most of the time. But I will defiantly look into the Pennzoil and try it out and see if it works for me. Has any one else had any ideas on a carbon blocker to put in my gas, like what brand to use or how often to use it?
Posted by Fshn Cpa
1/29/2018 6:01 PM
Find out which oil your engine is set to use XD-100 or XD-50. I had that Ficht engine and it ran super for a year. After that it was rebuilt 3 or 4 times by the Evinrude people. They could never get it right. That engine was what caused Evinrude to go bankrupt. BRP gave me a good deal on an E-Tec that blew up 3 months out of warranty. Evinrude said it was my fault that I let the oil run low. I have a 2 1/2 gallon oil reservoir that feeds the engine. Being a glutton for punishment I stayed with the Evinrude to avoid the extra cost of changing out the controls. My current E-Tec is a 2010 200hp and has been very good.
Posted by silvertalon
1/29/2018 7:25 PM
Thekid751 - 1/28/2018 7:14 PM

Hey guys I have a 2000 evinrude ram ficht 150.....I know I know sell it and buy a different motor lol but I had some one telling me to run xd-100 Oil and a carbon blocker in my gas. I understand the oil but I'm not sure on the carbon blocker. I'm guessing it's different from a carbon guard which is a flushing system. Is the carbon blocker something I run in everytank, or only a few tanks, or is it the same as a carbon guard? If so what brand do I use? Any help would be appriciated.


A good TCW3 is paramount with today's fuels. They are not all the same. Cheap oil's have less ashless dispursments in them. Stick with the OEM names or Penzoil premium plus synthetic blend. I use the latter in my opti.

Carbon reducing additives are recomennded on a regular basis. In your case - of having excessive carbon buildup, I'd add a bottle of quick Silver "Quick Kleen" every other full tank of usage. OMC has "Carbon Guard" and Yamaha has it too. It is intended to clean off the carbon from your piston rings,-plugs, compression chambers (cylinder heads), exhaust ports, and piston domes. Exce3ssive carbon on your piston domes, will bleed over edges and get in to your ring grooves causing them to stick, loose compression and ultimately cause a major failure. I've seen many failures from running cheap oil.

Stock motors are programmed to run rich for warranty protection. So, carbon build up is an issue. Its the nature of the beast with 2 styroke motors. Your excessive fouling and carbon issues should not be. I'd contact an OMC Service tech and ask about a hotter running spark plug for your Ficht. One step up in temp range. You may also have another problem in your ignition or fuel curve programming. It could just need a good "sync and link" to adjust your throttle advance etc. You should do a good inspection of your cylinders with a bore cam (Android Camera), wal Mart, $25.
Posted by ChooChooSnakeMan
1/30/2018 8:51 PM
I've had two stroke engines since 1988 and have an optimax and a Yamaha 4 stroke sho now. My opinion is this. First don't save on gas and oil. Run good fresh gas of the octane level recommended. I always run mid grade. Run ethonal free if you can. Run a quality tc3 oil such as Mercury quicksilver plus if it is an EFI engine or Mercury DFI for direct injection. I've heard great things about the Pennzoil premium plus as well. Some might disagree but I've always heard that Yamalube 2 stroke oil makes a lot of carbon. Anyway I am a firm believer in using additive to the gas. I like the Quickleen product for Merc two stroke and I also add some Lucas upper cylinder lubricant / injector cleaner to the cocktail. For my 4 stroke I run non ethanol mid grade with the Yamaha ringfree plus additive and the Lucas product in every tank. I know that the carbon cleaning products like Quickleen works because my prop hub is always nice and shiny, my plugs are clean and the engines just run and idle smoother. As has been pointed out, carbon build up is the killer of outboards. The carbon builds up and causes the piston rings to score the cylinder walls and then to seize. I also agree that outboards need to be run toward the top of their rpm range on a regular basis. I personally don't think it is good to run around wide open all the time. I think don't lug the engine and I try to spend most of my time running in the good sweet spot of around 4000 rpm where the engine is not working hard but not lugging. It is breathing easy and running easy. Every other trip or so I'll open it up to 5000 rpm or more for a minute or so to heat the engine up and help the fuel additives do the job of getting the carbon out. This is just my experience, in a sense outboards are really bombs waiting to go off but knock on wood at least since 1988 I've never blown an engine. Might happen next week but I hope not and if it does then at least I've taken the best care of my engines that I could. Don't get fooled into saving a few dollars on oil, gas, and additives. Keep up the maintenance on the engine. This is also very important. Let your engine warm up slowly before we go to cruise rpm let alone wide open. Metal parts have to stabilize temperature wise and oils have to come up to temperature before everything works as it should. The colder the air and water the more warm up you need. Also let the engine idle for a few minutes after a run to let the temps come down before shutting it down.
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