bow stablizer

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Target or hunting??? It is a COUNTERBALANCER. I would recomment that you visit an archery shop where they have knowledgeable staff. If you are trying it on your own, you must install your stabilizer. hold your bow out at full reach by only holding the grip and not the string. Slowly loosen your tight grip in your hand so the bow grip will hang onto the part of your hand between your thumb and index finger. For a properly sized and weighted stabilizer, your bow should stay vertical and not tip forward or to the rear. On a hunting bow you will need a shorter type with adjustable weights. Hunting types usually have shock absorbtion built in. There are many to choose from. With target bows you can get away with much lighter Counter-balancers They are generally much longer with weights that may be easliy adjusted and even some that have multiple balancing rods. i know I have not answered your question but that is what you are up against.
 
thanks,that makes sense,there is just so many out there,i hope to go bow hunting this year,i haven't shot a bow since early 90's,but came across a deal i couldn't pass up,i guess i have to start somewear, i can get a 4" x-coil 4.5 oz pretty cheap,thanks again
 
brushhog - 7/30/2010 12:15 AM thanks,that makes sense,there is just so many out there,i hope to go bow hunting this year,i haven't shot a bow since early 90's,but came across a deal i couldn't pass up,i guess i have to start somewear, i can get a 4" x-coil 4.5 oz pretty cheap,thanks again
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Sounds to me that the one you mentioned may be just the one. Unless you are incompitition and are a percision shooter, as long as it is pretty close you should be fine. If you are getting a deal in that one, then that one is the "PERFECT" one for your bow. When you get it on your bow, test it like I explained above. Good Hunting this season. LL</p>
 
Liveliner - 7/29/2010 7:23 PM

Target or hunting??? It is a COUNTERBALANCER. I would recommend that you visit an archery shop where they have knowledgeable staff. If you are trying it on your own, you must install your stabilizer. hold your bow out at full reach by only holding the grip and not the string. Slowly loosen your tight grip in your hand so the bow grip will hang onto the part of your hand between your thumb and index finger. For a properly sized and weighted stabilizer, your bow should stay vertical and not tip forward or to the rear. On a hunting bow you will need a shorter type with adjustable weights. Hunting types usually have shock absorption built in. There are many to choose from. With target bows you can get away with much lighter Counter-balancers They are generally much longer with weights that may be easliy adjusted and even some that have multiple balancing rods. i know I have not answered your question but that is what you are up against.


I disagree. Any stabilizer that is doing it's job properly will most likely make the bow want to fall forward after the shot. Remember the whole point is to stabilize the bow before and during the shot, not make it balance in hand after.

Also, put some thought into it that the further out you place the weight the less weight you will need to do the same job. Therefore these new stabs with carbon rods, or other lightweight materials work the best.

If you are using something similar to the Simms S-coil technically it is not even a stabilizer. Rather a "counterbalance" and advertised "shock reducer. Putting some rubber on the front of your bow does nothing to reduce hand shock.


Now everyone has their own opinions, and these are mine from trying a good many of the products on the market today. I would recommend a B-stinger stab to anyone. The stinger and the Doinker D.I.S.H. are technically the most effective "stabilizers" out right now.

On my hunting rig (BT Tribute 60lbs limbs) I shoot an 8.5" B-stinger with a 1" quick disconnect. 11oz. weight.
Very hard to beat for a hunting rig.
 
frazier2209 - 7/30/2010 4:33 AM
Liveliner - 7/29/2010 7:23 PM -------------------------. <font size="3">hold your bow out at full reach by only holding the grip and <font color="#0000cc">not the string</font>. Slowly loosen your tight grip in your hand so the bow grip will hang onto the part of your hand between your thumb and index finger. For a properly sized and weighted stabilizer, your bow should stay vertical and not tip forward or to the rear.</font> ---------------------.
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<font size="3">I disagree. Any stabilizer that is doing it's job properly will most likely make the bow want to fall forward <font color="#ff3300">after the shot</font>. Remember the whole point is to stabilize the bow before and during the shot, not make it balance in hand after.</font> Also, .
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<font size="3">I agree with you that we should all know the bow lunges forward after the shot. In my illistration I did not say shoot. I did not say "After the shot" I know that the bow falls forward after the shot. I was only trying to get him CLOSE by feel. without shooting the bow. Try your own bow and test it as i explained (don't shoot it) and see if it hangs unto your hand as I described.. All three of mine do.</font></p>
 
I have always used that way to but wanted my bow with a little tipping forward, why because the way i shot i would rather be off in the up and down, not right to left. with the weight moving forward just setting in your hand you will see more misses to the up or down, kind of takes away the right and left, just my two cents.
 
I went up last year to a Fuse 8" Carbon Connection stab and I absolutely love it. This is one identical to mine

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1248239

It took what little vibration my Hoyt had and made it disappear. It fits what I look for in a stab, but every opinion is different. Like mentioned before, take your bow to an archery shop and let them put different styles on and let you shoot a few shots with it and chose the one that best suits what you are looking for.
 
If you have a good bow, and know how to shoot it the right way, you really do not need one, FOR HUNTING that is. In most cases you are only talking about a 30 or less yard shot. When I use to shoot tournaments, stabalizers were a big deal because we were shooting quarter size groups at 50 yards.
 
i'd need to pratice before i shoot before anybody! lol dont know if i could hit the side of a barn,its been a long time,the last deer i shot,was with a ben pearson 45# recurve,220lbs,24" inside spread,10 point,and that was in wisconsin in 1995,thanks for advice,
 
brushhog - 7/31/2010 4:40 PM i'd need to pratice before i shoot before anybody! lol dont know if i could hit the side of a barn,its been a long time,the last deer i shot,was with<font size="2"> a ben pearson 45# recurve,220lbs,24" inside spread</font>,10 point,and that was in wisconsin in 1995,thanks for advice,
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Oh ?? I thought you were still discribing your Ben Pearson when you said 220# and 24" spread. It would take a Yell of a man to pull a 220# bow. LOL</p>

That deer was a real trophy. Don't expect to do that again. Especially around here.</p>
 
i live out here in old fort,theres about 3000 acres out here behind the house,BUT there are several 5-10 acre wood lots everywhere,them deer just run from woods to woods,there is 5 acres near the end of my driveway,i have been trying to catch the farmer that owns it to get permission,i seen 3 nice bucks in there last year, one was 10 pointer had tines what looked to be 6-8 inches long pointed straight up,crazy looking thing,that one right there is the one that got me to gonna try bow hunting this year!
 
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