Evinrude 9.5 Lower Lube Question

[Nephillim]

I finally got ahold of an outboard for my boat and, being a compleat novice at outboards, I have a question. Has anyone ever used Lubriplate No. 105 Lube in the lower instead of lower gear oil? It seems to be a type of lite grease. The guy at the shop said it was better to use it in the older models (its a 1969) but I don't want to do any harm to this motor because it is the only one I have and I have absolutly NO money for another one. Any thoughts?

 

[dragfish]

Ask Wrenchin 2!

 

[wrechin2]

I have never heard of that, not to say it isn't correct. All of the vintage OMC's I put gear oil in it. You may find something on a talk forums for vintage engines that would tell you that is the ticket. Lubriplate if fairly expensive if I remember correctly and as much as it would take you better hope that it is sealed good. Hate to see all that money go to waste if you have a leak, and water contaminates it. Then it would be a mess to get out of the lower.

My personal opinion is to put gear lube in it and run it. It worked for many years with it why won't it go that many more??? Oil can get into places that a grease could not. Even though it is fairly thin, it would take it getting hot to "OOOOOZE" into all the crevises. Just my thoughts!!!!!

See you are a fellow Dunlapian.....LOL!!!

 

[Nephillim]

That's exactly what I was thinking, although it wasn't expensive, only about $5 a tube. Ok, so now I have ANOTHER question; if the primer bulb becomes impossible to squeeze anymore yet gas has been flowing through the line, and the motor acts like it has absolutely no gas, could that be an indication that the carb. is blocked? (I pulled off the inlet hose to the carb. and it has gas pumping freely through it).

(I've noticed you don't normally find many people from dunlap online, its nice to meet one when you do though)

 

[wrechin2]

It may be that the carb jets are stopped up from varnish. I have only seen a couple that were so gummed up that the inlet was stopped up. It is almost always the jets. If you want to pull it off and run it up, I have some carb dip solution that we can put it in to clean the carb out with. Just DO NOT turn the idle screw. That one should have a lean/ rich knob on the outside. Center it before you pull it off. I am across from the ball fields.

 

[Nephillim]

Well, after working with it for the past few days I'm almost convinced that the carb is not the sole cause of the problem. I have sprayed carb cleaner in the throat and let it set overnight and I am still seeing the problem, as well as I can now smell gas on the plugs. However, I believe that it is an electrical problem because when grounding the lower plug out I only got one spark in ten mins. It will hit once every so often, even when using starter fluid or pouring gas in the plug socket. When using an electrical tester everything seems fine except I can not get a tone when running from the plug wire socket to the points/condenser/coil. So, I think i'm going to try replacing the condenser,plug wires, and maybe even the coil because the points look brand new and the flywheel magnet has no rust on it at all.

 

[Bubbakat]

Check all your grounds to the coils and those points and condensers under the flywheel can be had through orielly's auto parts. The condensers on those ole punkin heads were real bad about going bad so you may have a week one but do not file those points just clean them with some good solvent like brake cleaner. The point should be set at 22 and a close one at that. the most you should have to do is soak that carb and replace the needle and seat. Be careful when taking the rewind starter out it is tricky to put back. Use a good Champion plug j4 or j6 gapped at 30.

 

[Nephillim]

Hey thanks! My uncle had the suspicion that the condenser could be bad even though everything looks perfect and new. I guess that's going to be the first thing I pick up. Again thanks for the help everyone .... if anyone has any more ideas please feel free to let me know.