evinrude intruder 150 ??

[jakemac]

2 problems.

1. after i run up the lake for a few minutes the starter is so hot that it will not engage again unless i remove the cowl and let it cool down for at least 15 minutes. starts fine after that and starts first try every time i put the boat in. anyone know why?

2. after a run of about 10 minutes or longer, when i stop i cant keep it at idle. it just shuts down. runs perfect at WOT and everywhere in between. the motor does seem to be cooling itself because there is a steady line of water shooting out. explainations?

thanks

 

[wrechin2]

Sound like a stator or powerpack getting hot or optical sensor. ANYTHING electical can create isues with heat. At WOT the flywheel moves enough air to keep it cool. The starter getting so hot it won't start? That has a SLOW system that if hot it will reduce the rpm's to 2500 to keep from damaging the engine. It probably is building up the heat after turned off. That is a strange one and may be simple. Check the vents on the cowl for dirt dobbers. Just a thought....

 

[jakemac]

vents are good. i thought about drilling 2 2 inch holes in front and 2 in back to let some heat out but i dont want to do that for obvious reasons. is there an aftermarket starter that hanjdles heat better??

 

[wrechin2]

The factory stuff shouln't be having that issue. Are you sure the alarm works??? Most have SLOW tha won't let it overheat, possibility that it is not working or has a bad/unplugged sensor. That is a real strange one. Would be interesting though!!!!

 

[shortfish]

maybe starter not disengaging the flywheel will kick it out but starter may be running that's why it gets so hot

 

[Guest]

As stated above, I believe the starter bendix is staying engaged after the motor starts, you might be able to oil the starter shaft and let the bendix slide back down away from the flywheel. Another thing is the starter selonoid may be bad and it is staying engaged after the motor starts. If this is the case that little mother would be red hot turning all those rpms.There shouldn't beany heat whatsoever under the cowl with the motor running because the water is cooling the engine.

 

[Guest]

You cannot get to the bendix on that engine without taking a bunch of stuff off of it. It is under the big plastic cover on top of the engine. Like they said above your starter bendix could be hanging up and that will make your starter get super hot!

 

[jakemac]

i doubt that the bendix is hanging up becaused i think the starter would be shot by now if that was the case. i am on the lake at least 3 days a week and this has been a problem for a month now and when i try to start it it whizzes as if it will not engage. like it is spinning free with no load on it. i will check out a few things and let you know what i figure out

 

[wrechin2]

I have one apart....Like span said, it is a LOT of stuff to get apart as it is a external gear reduction. Starter comes up an attaches to a gear with a bendix on it. Then the cover holds the bendix in. It is a PAIN!!!!! The bendix by design will be thrown down when the flywheel speeds up. unless it is damaged some how. I had one of the starter break a bushing and was rubbing the case. Sounded awful. i thought the engine was toast because engine had quit on the guy 3 times and he kept trying to crank it then it started this noise. Turned out to be out of gas!!! and he burnt the starter up trying to crank it. </p>

</p>

May explain the stall but I would doubt it to be the issue. But I have seen stranger things.</p>

</p>

Just my thoughts.....</p>

 

[wrechin2]

Here is a picture of the starter system. Starter is on the right, gear reduction in the middle, and flywheel on the right. I personally don't think this is the case because of the amount of force it would take to turn the stater backwards. It is hard to go to a little pully and try to turn a big pulley. It may be the case, but I doubt it. I have been wrong before!!!!!!! LOL!!

 

[wrechin2]

I meant flywheel on the left of the picture.

 

[kcaylor]

I have a Johnson 150 and was having similar problems, you could run it at full throttle and it was fine, but when you turned it off you had to wait about 15 to 20 mins. before it would crank back. I was ready to Burn it, I took it to a mechanic in Calhoun,Ga and he replaced the optical sensor, It still was not fixed. I then took it to Eddie Amos at Boats and motors of Dalton and he put it on a dyno and determined it was the power pack. I decided then not to waste time trying to figure it out and take it to someone with a dyno where i could get back to fishing.

 

[kcaylor]

I have a Johnson 150 and was having similar problems, you could run it at full throttle and it was fine, but when you turned it off you had to wait about 15 to 20 mins. before it would crank back. I was ready to Burn it, I took it to a mechanic in Calhoun,Ga and he replaced the optical sensor, It still was not fixed. I then took it to Eddie Amos at Boats and motors of Dalton and he put it on a dyno and determined it was the power pack. I decided then not to waste time trying to figure it out and take it to someone with a dyno where i could get back to fishing. emoBang

 

[wrechin2]

jakemac,
Yours will not TURN over with the starter, correct? Will the starter engage and not spin fast enough or not turn at all? This may be a solenoid issue.

I agree with having the correct tools. All the dyno allowed was for him not to go to the lake with it. The same could have been done at the lake. I just had to buy the Optical sensor sensor tester and it is $360 and is used to TEST the sensor and set the timing on the v-4 AND V-6 60* engines. That is the only engines it works on.

Sometimes this is not a exact science. You can test voltages with the special tools it takes and go by the charts and still come up with the wrong part replaced. I have the DVA adapter and fluke 88 meter and charts telling me what voltage is where and the minimum it can be. Electricity is going to follow the path of least resistance. A bad power pack, shorting inside, can cause a stator to have incorrect readings because you test voltages with it hooked up. I have had this happen. The power packs are KNOWN to go bad on the 60*. CDI has a updated parts that are specific to the other parts on it. They are one of the worse ones to identify parts for because they had alot of changes.

just my thoughts...