floor replacement

[jmbwest]

I recently boat a '83 hydrasport 15' the hull is in great shape for the year model but the floor needs replacing. As far as i can tell the wood floor is put in from underneath. If this is the case does anyone know the best way to replace it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TightlineT]

Don't know about floor replacement. I did replace the carpet in mine a few years back. I bought the carpet and glue from bass pro. Carpet has done ok despite my installation. I'm not much for giving advice, but an extra person with an extra set of hand would be helpful. That glue is STICKYYYYY. Also, try to salvage as much of the old carpet as you can to use as a template for the new. I bought some posterboard from walmart to cut my templates out with from the old carpet. Just a thought....

 

[NRG]

Floors ... ahh .. but with rotted floors usually comes rotted stringers, and transom is usually go hand in hand, most of all on Hydra-Sports .. I recently rebuilt a 87 Hydra .. started with floors ended up doing all the wood.
If it is JUST the floor, you have 2 options cut out just the rotted sections and replace those, or remove the top cap of the boat and replace them properly, but while the cap is off you may as well do all wood.

My Hydra had floor rot around rear drain, you can just cut back to good wood ( Cut edges in a v shape on the wood you cut out then , cut you replacement pieces at same angle on the new wood ) .. The hydra boats glue the top of the boat to the floor using a thickened polyester resin, you will have to break that with a chisel to be able remove rotted wood, and to slide new wood up under if the wood under the cap is rotted.

Your best bet is to use epoxy resin on the new floor sections, cover bottom side, the let cure, after cure is going good, slightly tacky install that wood in place , making a paste with the epoxy using milled fibers, and cab-o-sil to act as glue. set that in place then apply a heavy weight to the floor section and wait a good 24 -48 hrs before removing the weight.

Then grind any blobs or high spots with 36-48 grit until even with old floor, apply more epoxy to at least a 4 inch area around the patch, then using 1708 biaxal cloth wet that out make sure you get all the air bubbles out with a epoxy friendly roller. and wait another 3 days until fully cured.

You can get all the stuff you need to DIY at uscomposites.com

You can do the same process using polyester resin ( its cheaper per gallon 25 compared to 60-90 plus hardener ) but it wets out easier, and has very low odor, and is 100% water proof and bonds to wood much better than polyester, and polyester is not water proof.

You could use polyester resin then paint the entire floor with an epoxy paint but it would cost as much or more to do that way.

If your whole floor is bad, its much harder and would be best to remove the top cap to do whole floor. That way you can get it properly tied into the sides of the boat, gives it better structural strength .

Here is pics of my hydra restore
just follow the link it will show the whole project from day one including the floor
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c296/northrivergeek/Hydrasport restore/

 

[jmbwest]

thanks NRG I know it is your area of expertise so do you think removing the top cap is a job that someone with no experience in it could handle. Or i guess how much can someone look to spend on doing it diy or at a shop?

 

[NRG]

Yes you can remove the top cap without experience, cause soon you will have experience lol if you tackle it your self.. it is a big job for first time or 1000th time, but if you take your time and dont rush it it can be done.
The biggest thing you need is a way to lift the boat once you get the top loose, I used two trees and a metal beam lag bolted to the trees what ever you use make sure it can handle 500-800 lbs.
I have a pdf book I can send you that will give you most of what you need to know.. but if you scour the internet you will get the rest you need.. even too much info.. as far as tools.. you will need a grinder, saws all, chisels, screw driver to remove all the screws from the rub rail, better yet a screw gun, at least 30 clamps need 4 - 6 to re glass the transom that are at least 18" deep, concrete blocks, and a good air body saw and a big shop vac.. if you dont have any of these you may consider getting some one else to do it or start collecting the tools, and materials and wait till you get every thing needed, you can plan on spending 1000 - 1500 to DIY .. if you redo all the wood, floors, stringers transom, and transom supports.
And a garage or carport to keep all dry wont hurt either.
I did all of my boats and friends and families boats in the yard under temp garage ( Tarps )for many years
To redo the whole boat a shop will charge you 5000 - 7000 maybe more.. depends on the shop. Lots of hours involved .

You can do it .. if you are mechanically inclined and you do the research on all you can absorb.. take lots and lots of pics and measurements as you do it, cause in 3 months you wont remember how to get it all back together when that day comes ..

 

[jmbwest]

thanks