How to Choose a Propeller for your mid sized boat.

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Liveliner

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How to Choose a Propeller for your mid sized boat.

This is simplified and I know that most of you guys know this info already. However, there may be a few folks on the forum that may get help with this post.
If you have anything to add, please do so.

My opinion from experience. The difference with 3 and 4 blade props is; A 3 blade gives you a little more on top end and good range of power throughout. A 4 blade bites better at take-off and in tight turns and can push a heaver load. You will loose a little speed at top end.
The way that you choose a prop is by running it to test it. A boat will generally run better in slightly choppy water. Therefore if you test several props at different times, make sure you have the same conditions on the water.
* Know your engines maximum RPM range and DO NOT exceed it.
* Load your boat as you would normally use it alone. Batteries, fuel, rods, tackle and only you in the boat.
* Trim the engine all the way in. Accelerate hard and keep the throttle full forward. The boat will gain speed and RPMs and will stable out at a point. At that point start trimming the engine out slowly. You will start to see a gain in speed and RPMs. While the engine is still trimmed in you can feel that there is more drag on the steering on one side more that the other when you slightly turn left and right. Your speed will start to level out and stop gaining as you are trimming your engine out at full throttle. DO NOT ALLOW YOUR RPMs TO GO ABOVE THE LIMIT When you see your speed level out, stop trimming your engine and feel the balance of the pull on the steering wheel. If it is even on left and right, you are there. If not, watch your RPMs and slowly trim out some more to the balance in the steering is even. By over trimming your engine your boat will slow down and over-rev your engine. If this starts to occur, trim back a little to the balanced steering point.
NOW based on what you saw in that test it will tell you what you need.
1. If the maximum speed that you acquired was reached at a point less than your maximum RPM and you could not reach your maximum RPM, Your prop has too much pitch.
2. If you max'ed out your RPMs before your boat was trimmed to the point of balanced steering, You need more pitch.
3. At near perfect pitch for your boat. It should come out of the hole while trimmed in. It will gain speed and RPMs while you are SLOWLY trimming the engine out at full throttle. At the point where you are nearing your maximum RPMs you should feel the steering balance. At that point you should also have just reached your maximum speed. At that point where your trim and throttle is set, and without moving them, you may get an increase in speed without gaining RPMs. The reason for this is that the faster you go the less drag you have on the hull. Therefore at top speed you may lose some drag which will in turn let you gain speed.
With the factors that I pointed out to test a prop, The speed you reached is what that prop will do. The speed is what you get from that setup and that is it.
All props that you test from three blade to five blade should be tested the exact same way. You will see that they will have differences in their performance.
On my Proline Bay boat, I run two different propellers for the results that I want.(one at a time). With my three blade in fresh water. Alone in my boat it runs 51MPH at 5600RPMs, with two persons its 48MPH and so on to Four persons at 44MPH at 5200 RPMs. With the Four blade prop, I get 48MPH at 5600 RPMS loaded or not. I use my four blade in salt water and for playing in freshwater. I use it to pull water toys, It gets out of the hole and turns on a dime. The Four blade has much more mid range bite and control in tight turns and very good in keeping the bite in very rough water. It will also perform better with a heaver load.
Now on top of all that. If you want to gain more performance out of your prop, you can start adjusting the cup, rake and shape of the blades.
Another thing to know is that on props that exhaust through the hub there may be holes in front of the blades. Those holes are there to allow air to pass in front of the blade at take off to help get the RPMs up quick for a hole shot. Some props have plastic inserts that can be changed to change the hole size. The larger the holes, the more air you get in front of the blades. The holes have no effect at high speeds.
 
I got an older 19ft Bullet (1988) a few weeks back. It has a chopper blade on it, & I think it is a 28 pitch with a Merc. 200. At around 60-75mph the boat starts to shift back & forth making it hard to handle. I've been told that's just what the old Bullet's did. I've not had it out on the water much because the fuel pump & power trim went out. To the tune of about $850.00emoDoh . But if I ever get it out of the shop I'd like to know what the old boat could do with out killing myself. Any suggestions?emoConfused
 
Here's a question for you LL or anyone else that can help. I have an 18' center console jonboat. I know that jonboats don't run on a "pad" like other boats. I have experienced the neutral steering that you mentioned when the engine is trimmed up. It feels a little scary as the steering goes from pulling pretty hard one way to no feel at all. I have heard horror stories about guys trying to run their jonboats on the pad like a bass boat and the lost control. Any help will be appreciated as I want to maximize the performance of my boat safely.

Cheez
 
I got an idea Cheez you can go with me to try to learn how to drive my old Bullet 90mph. And if we live through that well surely have fate & luck on or sides. So when I go with you, tackling your Jhon boat would be a snapemoLaugh I just hope it's not or necks that snap:eek:.
 
Hello 2jigs - At around 60-75mph the boat starts to shift back & forth making it hard to handle. I've been told that's just what the old Bullet's did.

Cavitation is your problem. The hull design in many of the boats in that time fram had hulls that could not control the power put out by the engines that could push a boat to 65MPH. 65 MPH seemed to be the majic number. It seems to happen at the point where the hull lifts off the water to settle in its high speed plane. I was aware of this problem back then with a Hydrostream Bass boat with a built 200 omc. At 65mph it would wobble side to side. Stay in the throttle and wiggle the stearing wheel and it would come out of it and go on to a top speed of 81mph. That was a real hotrod in those days.
The way to help and hopefully correct the cavitating it to add trim tabs or at least cavitation tubs on the boat. There is a new type of trim tabs that are automatic and now on the market that are reasonabally inexpensive. I will do some research for you and post the info.
 
Hello Cheez -

In your flat bottom boat just don't turn to quickly and please stay away from tight turns at fast speeds. what is happening is that you don't have a "Pad" as you say or anything on the rear of your hull. If you had a hull that had a "V" or a skeg that ran to the transom you would not be having that feeling. As it is when you are trimmed out there is nothing on the bottom of your boat that limits its feeling of sliding sideways across the water. It really is sliding around. If you should turn too sharp at a fast speed in minimul choppy water you could have the problem of your boat kicking out at the rear and flipping. Not good. Whenever you turn, trim your engine in to the point that you feel the boat settle down onto the water then make a reasonable turn.
 
That's exactly what I do now. I just did it out of instinct. I don't know the whys and wherefores too much but do know when something isn't right. When I'm trimmed to the point that the steering balances it only make about a 3 mph difference. 40 mph to 43 mph so I'm not in a big enough hurry to risk it.
Here's another question for you. My throttle will only stay put at about 1/2. I have to keep my hand on it for full speed full time. On longer runs this is tiring. How do I adjust it to stay wide open? I have a 2005 Yamaha 90 hp.
Thanks,

Cheez
 
I swear, I an not the everlasting know-it-all.emoScratch
But I think that I can help you with this one also. On most controls there is an adjustment for tension, It could be a screw anywhere on the lower part of your control. It may be under the cover plate, Normally they are not too hard to find. I would advise you to dig out your manual for your engine. It should explain how to do this. Or, get an Id from your control and call a Yammy dealer and ask where the adjustment is. Adjust it yourself. It does not take too much to get the tention you desire. Some engine manuf.'s don't recommend shifting to reverse with the engine not running. Even shifting to forward to test your tension, do not force the handle when engauging into gear.

Good luck.
 
Thanks LL I just have questions that I probably could have gotten answers for if I tried but I usually just wait until someone brings up a subject. If I had more than a once a week fishing habit I would already have adressed these things. Mostly though I just put the boat out close to where I fish and don't sweat the small stuff. Thanks for the help.

Cheez
 
Thanks for the article on proper prop selection LL. Understanding the different characteristics and having a uniform test procedure will help a lot when attempting to get max performance and handling out of your boat.

I guess there's a science for everything !emoSmile
 
I don't have a clue what this is all about. Me and Rsimms. Put gas in it, turn the key on and go. That's all I know. When it comes to all this technical stuff about boats and motors, I'm as dumb as a box of rocks. emoBigsmile emoBigsmile emoGeezer
 
2jigs if you have a jack plate you could raise your engine and it will help with the chine walk , but don't raise it to high or you will lose water pressure so keep a eye on your rpms and water pressure
 
These boats chine walk regardless of anything because their pad has chines. They are much easier to drive with the correct setup, which the factory usually didn't do back then.
 

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