Why not just drain the block and exhaust manifolds???
You can also install antifreeze by taking a flush adapter, old garden hose, and a large container.
Cuz that is a lot of fiddling for the goal of just trying to stall the inevitable winterizing for a few more weeks. Ive two bellows plugs and four block drain plugs one of which is a real knuckle bleeder that is also marginally stripped and cross threaded.
I dug around a lot trying to see if there was a formula for how many watts of energy to raise ambient temp 1 degree. I could only find formulas for how much energy to raise water temp by one degree.
There are too many variables here to know. 1. mass and thermal properties of the engine block, 2. Volume of air in the engine compartment, 3. insulating property's of the engine compartment.
Ive done this method in years past with success down to mid 25'sF overnight so I guess Im fine going forward into the next couple weeks.
Ill try to rig up a remote temp sensor if we get a really cold night so I can give others here an idea of how many degrees above ambient they can expect.
One potential risk would be ignition. Ive always put the engine cover on loosely to increase air flow. Gas vapors are heavier than air though. Would the boats drain plug being open be adequate to mitigate any vapor combustion risk?
James
Question about full winterizing. You mentioned the antifreeze bucket technique. I did this my first couple of seasons while winterizing but later abandoned it. Ive only seen one or two tutorials that mention it. Most do not. It is extremely difficult to arrange the bucket so air doesnt get sucked in and also perfectly time the level in the bucket with stalling the engine by spraying fogging oil in the carb.
Is it really needed if Im opening all plugs and also disconnecting all water hoses?
