I just got a new project boat from my dad. It is a 17 ft Venture Vendetta with a Mercury 150 Black Max. I wanted to know if a jack plate was worth the time and effort? I know that they improve boat performance. I was just wondering how much? My guess is that the boat is going to run high 50's or low 60's depending on prop setup and weight. A good friend of mine said that Venture's were fast boats in their day. Anybody else heard that?
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jack plate question
- Thread starter top_water
- Start date
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On almost ANY boat they are worth it. Just the ability to raise the engine and get some to the resistance off of the lower being "PUSHED" through the water will increase in speed and fuel economy. Ever take your trolling motor and bury it? Boat moves slow. Raise it close to the surface and the boat speeds up right? Same principle.
I just did a transom for a friend of mine on a 84 18' Venture tournmament edition and the hole shot has more than cut in half and runs alot smoother. I can give you his number and you can ask him yourself!!
I deal with boats ALL the time and in most cases a general rule of thumb is 1" per foot of boat. This formula holds true to most boats. Sounds crazy!!!! I thought so untill i tried it. But look at the formula. It works like this. This was on my personal boat.
17' glass stream Modified 150 (my pic) . Needs 17" of set back. This Boat has 5" built in. Leaves 12". The engine has 2" built in so that leaves. 10"..... I started out with a 6" jackplate. Boat ran 55mph GPS@5800 with 26 chopper. Most of the bow still in the water. Switched to 8" and gps 61MPH @ 5900 boat now 3/4 out of the water. Switched to a 10" (which is what the formula called for) and boat ran 68 GPS @6100 and hardly any of the boat was in the water. The boat ran faster due to less boat was in the water having to be pushed. Very similar to not trimming the engine. I tried 12" and the bat was unstable and could not drive it. With the 10" jackplate my 11 year old could drive it 68 on the pad with no trouble. Of course I have alot of stuff done to my lower to make it this was and have CABLE steering not HYDRAULIC.
A jack plate gives leverage and changes the center point of the boat. This makes the bow EASIER to lift and requires less HP from your motor to lift thus allowing the power to PUSH the boat. Take s sea saw. Have a skinny kid on one side and a fat kid on the other(I am the fat kid!!!LOL) the skinny kid can lift the Fat kid by scooting to the edge thus changing the center point of balance.
As a matter of fact I am about to mil out a 3/8 jackplate with 5" of setback today(start at least LOL) and if you want to try a jack plate before you buy one give me a call. Alot of props work better being close to the surface better that others. I built a heavily modified 2L merc (2.0L mods under my signature) on a ranger. tried 7 props the same day and dialed each one in and there was 8MPH between the fastest prop and the slowest. Just my 2 Cent worth. Sorry so long.
I just did a transom for a friend of mine on a 84 18' Venture tournmament edition and the hole shot has more than cut in half and runs alot smoother. I can give you his number and you can ask him yourself!!
I deal with boats ALL the time and in most cases a general rule of thumb is 1" per foot of boat. This formula holds true to most boats. Sounds crazy!!!! I thought so untill i tried it. But look at the formula. It works like this. This was on my personal boat.
17' glass stream Modified 150 (my pic) . Needs 17" of set back. This Boat has 5" built in. Leaves 12". The engine has 2" built in so that leaves. 10"..... I started out with a 6" jackplate. Boat ran 55mph GPS@5800 with 26 chopper. Most of the bow still in the water. Switched to 8" and gps 61MPH @ 5900 boat now 3/4 out of the water. Switched to a 10" (which is what the formula called for) and boat ran 68 GPS @6100 and hardly any of the boat was in the water. The boat ran faster due to less boat was in the water having to be pushed. Very similar to not trimming the engine. I tried 12" and the bat was unstable and could not drive it. With the 10" jackplate my 11 year old could drive it 68 on the pad with no trouble. Of course I have alot of stuff done to my lower to make it this was and have CABLE steering not HYDRAULIC.
A jack plate gives leverage and changes the center point of the boat. This makes the bow EASIER to lift and requires less HP from your motor to lift thus allowing the power to PUSH the boat. Take s sea saw. Have a skinny kid on one side and a fat kid on the other(I am the fat kid!!!LOL) the skinny kid can lift the Fat kid by scooting to the edge thus changing the center point of balance.
As a matter of fact I am about to mil out a 3/8 jackplate with 5" of setback today(start at least LOL) and if you want to try a jack plate before you buy one give me a call. Alot of props work better being close to the surface better that others. I built a heavily modified 2L merc (2.0L mods under my signature) on a ranger. tried 7 props the same day and dialed each one in and there was 8MPH between the fastest prop and the slowest. Just my 2 Cent worth. Sorry so long.
Wow ! Sounds like you are the person to talk to. I may just take you up on that. I pulled the boat in the garage Saturday and started working on the motor. Good compression on all six cylinders. Unfortunately no power on one side. My friend thought that the power pack might be bad. My trim motor needs some work too. BUT the jack plate would be nice to have. What do they go for? Where is the best place to get one ??
Don't go by compression alone. I have rebuilt alot of engines that had "GOOD COMPRESSION" but fail a leakdown test. Compression tells you how much "pressure" it can make but leakdown tell you how much pressure is bleeding off. Ususally 10% is most you would want to see and ususally is just rings coked and can be reversed with power tune. If it has say 80% (Have had engines with even compression and have 1 or 2 with high leakage and find 2nd ring pinned by carbon and 1st ring almost pinned!) This will cause bottom end power loss.
I started milling out a 5" setback with 5" of travel today. New they go for about $150. These I am making I will probably sell you one for $80.
GRANTED A 96 or back engine and not CDM ignition..............Removed the Black with yellow tracer off the switch box and turn over, don't try to start. If spark is now present then it is wiring. (ususally not wiring) If still not present switch the stator wires between the 2 boxes. (red and blue wires on top) if the opposite side now quits and the side that was not firing is now firing it is a stator. If it stays the same it is a switchbox. A trigger will not drop all at once. So it is going to be a stator or a switch box. If it is a switch box make sure you go back with the same brand. The bias circuit (syncs the timing between the 2 boxes white and black wire going between the 2 boxes) can have different resistance from on another and will cause 1-3-5 to be at 22* and 2-4-6 to be at 30* timing and cause detonation and damage a piston. Of couse this is exagerated but CAN happen. They are one of the number 1 CAUSES of a merc V-6 to blow is their Crappy switchboxes. Go with CDI units and it won't happed. The places I order reman Power Heads from will not warranty the engine unless BOTH switchboxes are replaced at the time of the replacement. And the spark advance module and Idle stabilizer must pass a 5LB hammer test. Hit them 3 times with a 5LB hammer and if they survive they can be reinstalled. I have not had one go back on!!!!!! I removed them on all my rebuilds and throw them AWAY! If that tells you how crappy they are!! I have several used mercury switchboxes. Can't remember which are good and bad. If you want to go the used route. I have 2 CDI boxes with 12 Hours on them. They are on a XR2 (my pic) of mine that has found its way on a engine stand. Will give them to you at a good deal with a warranty!!! I need to upgrade to the over 8K boxes for the 2.0L tuber engine I am building that will turn 9500 RPM emoEek
Sorry so long, hope it helps though.
I started milling out a 5" setback with 5" of travel today. New they go for about $150. These I am making I will probably sell you one for $80.
GRANTED A 96 or back engine and not CDM ignition..............Removed the Black with yellow tracer off the switch box and turn over, don't try to start. If spark is now present then it is wiring. (ususally not wiring) If still not present switch the stator wires between the 2 boxes. (red and blue wires on top) if the opposite side now quits and the side that was not firing is now firing it is a stator. If it stays the same it is a switchbox. A trigger will not drop all at once. So it is going to be a stator or a switch box. If it is a switch box make sure you go back with the same brand. The bias circuit (syncs the timing between the 2 boxes white and black wire going between the 2 boxes) can have different resistance from on another and will cause 1-3-5 to be at 22* and 2-4-6 to be at 30* timing and cause detonation and damage a piston. Of couse this is exagerated but CAN happen. They are one of the number 1 CAUSES of a merc V-6 to blow is their Crappy switchboxes. Go with CDI units and it won't happed. The places I order reman Power Heads from will not warranty the engine unless BOTH switchboxes are replaced at the time of the replacement. And the spark advance module and Idle stabilizer must pass a 5LB hammer test. Hit them 3 times with a 5LB hammer and if they survive they can be reinstalled. I have not had one go back on!!!!!! I removed them on all my rebuilds and throw them AWAY! If that tells you how crappy they are!! I have several used mercury switchboxes. Can't remember which are good and bad. If you want to go the used route. I have 2 CDI boxes with 12 Hours on them. They are on a XR2 (my pic) of mine that has found its way on a engine stand. Will give them to you at a good deal with a warranty!!! I need to upgrade to the over 8K boxes for the 2.0L tuber engine I am building that will turn 9500 RPM emoEek
Sorry so long, hope it helps though.
Did you find you a hull yet? Really good talking to you the other day. Sorry to have been the bearer of bad news about you boat. Like I said, I can help you out with the fiberglass. If you have another trailer, you could bring it here and we can seperate it and you take it back home. Or I could rent you the boom for like $5 a day. NGR seen it and wishes he had it !LOL! and the wife would love to see it gone for a while. It is 14X14X14 and portable. Later man!!!
Or do what I did .. two trees and a beam bolted to them .. but with if you rent James's Boom you can move it around and it has electric winch, and that is a big help, and if your in near Hixson I can help you out lil hand holding on the glass work !
His boat has a BAD transom. Looks to be from those plastic splashwell drains. That is why I always put the aluminum ones in. Someone has welded a pieced together and bolted across the top. Could be made into a real nice boat. My boom is not electric cause most only lift 700lbs. Mine is a 2 ton winch. I have lifted complete boats off the trailers to replace bunks, paint trailers, ect. And as big as it is, 2 people can have it down in 20 minutes and loaded on the trailer. Have had to do it to pull engines out of 26' and 28' cabin cruisers in chattanooga before. Is so big can pull the engine slide it to the side of the boat and let it down on the ground (or engine stand) and never move the boat!!! LOL!! Bigger is better right???? LOL! Later.
I also put epoxy in the holes b4 I put in the splash tubes Brass or Alum, that way even if the water would seep in its not very likely to penetrate the wood if it water were to get past the tube and the 3m 5200.
I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy after drilling new holes in for splash tube/tubes making sure to coat and seal it all, let that dry, next day install tubes and 3m 5200
I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy after drilling new holes in for splash tube/tubes making sure to coat and seal it all, let that dry, next day install tubes and 3m 5200
I have gotten to make my own tubes since I have the tool. I bought a 5 foot piece of .035 walled 1" tubing and cut to lenth. Flare one end and insert and trim as needed.
But we can help you with any of it that you need, just have to overlook NRG his is just real ugly!! LOL. Just let us know what you are going to do. You got the biggest, part the engine. I love the 2.0L's. Just about cant kill them and I can make some power with them. Not as much as I can with a 2.5, but still very impressive! I like them so much I have 5 of them!!! I will talk to you later.
But we can help you with any of it that you need, just have to overlook NRG his is just real ugly!! LOL. Just let us know what you are going to do. You got the biggest, part the engine. I love the 2.0L's. Just about cant kill them and I can make some power with them. Not as much as I can with a 2.5, but still very impressive! I like them so much I have 5 of them!!! I will talk to you later.
Oldman
Well-known member
wish i had a 10 inch jp(hint hint) james
Oldman
Well-known member
james loaned me a 6 inch jp and he may have to fight me to get it back.lol not really i need a 10 inch jp.
Oldman
Well-known member
hell when james dies that will make me the uglyest man alive.
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