modifying reel seat

[angst]

Im interested in cutting away some of the material near the trigger on an older model casting rod that does not have an exposed blank. </p>

Here is a page with step by step pics of it being done.
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Can the seat be removed on a rod that is already built without destroying the cork, or is the cork glued in place?</p>

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[sprestwood]

It appears that it has to be glued. If it flexes enough it will crumble. The glue will provide support.

 

[Guest]

The cork should be glued in place. On some rods they use very little glue, others they really glop it up in there. If it were me, I would just remove the cork and the reel seat, and buy a new reel exposed reel seat (about $6, http://www.swamplandtackle.com/products.asp?cat=34, or try mudhole). Of course you may have some glue marks in the new exposed area that might be difficult to fully remove.

 

[Fat Albert]

R14 - 7/18/2009 1:33 PM The cork should be glued in place. On some rods they use very little glue, others they really glop it up in there. If it were me, I would just remove the cork and the reel seat, and buy a new reel exposed reel seat (about $6, http</p>

<font face="comic sans ms,sand" color="#ff0033" size="4">you do need to mike the reel seat so as to fit properly. It is suppose to fit tight on the blank....and then put a new cork handle on the rod....good luck.....FA</font></p>

 

[angst]

Interesting stuff.
So, replacing the rear cork would be a given. Looks like that would run about $10 not counting shipping. If the seat is modified and re-used it still could be a fun low cost mod. Going to a split grip cork could make the project even more "custom-ey"
After reading around a bit more it sounds like the reel seat is glued or epoxied in place. Is this the case? if so you probably couldn't remove it without destroying it. It would also be very hard to remove without damaging the blank too I would think.