I've got a 2000 200 merc efi. rough idle at first like a fouled plug, it'll clear up for a minute so i'll take off get the motor to about 4400rpms and cruise there for about a mile, then it acts like its dropping a cylinder , drops 200rs and when i ease out of it it will cut in and out continuously untill i get down to about idle again and it boggs down and dies. when i restart it its rough again and smokes badly. talked to a few people and i've heard it could be a stater, cdms, computer, or trigger. I started off by changing new plugs out, next time out it run fine no miss. thought i had it. next time out same thing. ended up changing fuel filter, fuel line, and plugs. Had one guy who looked at the stater and said it was bad, so i broke down and bought it for 570 bucks from cleveland bc, put it on run for a mile up river and back hard and not a problem. thought i had it fixed. next time out same thing. so i ate 570 bucks unless someone needs a stater. Was also told it could be the cdm, so i borrowed one and changed it out four times. On the fourth round rough idle at first once i took off it cleared up and for the rest of the day worked fine. Took it to wolftever this morn and started up fine put it into gear boggy and died. Tried to get it to start took 20 min every time it fired up it was rough once again, put it into gear and dead. We did notice the trigger has a tiny crack in the middle of the plastic, it looks almost like it has swelled and cracked. Thats our next option as I have connection to one of those. If that's not it the computer is the only thing left I know to try. But any suggestion u have please let me know. Thanks
motor probs
- Thread starter jo jo
- Start date
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ditchdoc666
Well-known member
hey Joe ,PM wreching2 on here he can help answer questions on your merc
Could be electronic. There are many ways of testing the electronics. with CDM ignition it is very hard. Still could use a simple tool like a timing light. I use a inductive timing light to check engines out all the time. I have a zip-strip on the trigger. I hook to #1 and drive. If spark is dropping off that cylinder then the test light will quit flashing or get erratic. But it has to duplicate it. Then do that on all 6 cylinders. If you have severe bogging and no loss of spark it could be fuel injection or a bleeder check valve. Hope this helps.
If you think you have figured out it is a CDM componet let me know. I have some. We can do some tryanositcs, I mean Diagnostics by using KNOWN GOOD parts. LOL!!! The thing with electronics is you can have a bad CDM and will make the stator show bad. have seen it many times. I like when they have a dead miss to them and are easy to find. So don't emoBang. Just keep us posted with what you find.
Dropshot
Well-known member
i have had similar issues...it has been diagnosed as either a high pressure fuel pump issue or an ECU. Both are expensive parts to buy, then not be the problem.
That is why I have aEFI merc 2.5here that I was converting to Carbs (cheaper than either part) then I found the guy had bought a thrown together engine. When I pulled the intake I found 5 of 6 reed cages broken and pieced missing on 1 and then I pulled the heads and it was messed up. One of the heads was beat to pieces with a good piston. Then the ports had chunks missing on it. Then #1 was damaged recently from the broken reed piece missing. Look at the pictures. see what I mean. Now I am build a modified 2.5 200 with carbs for it (tr-20). since the other engine is JUNK!! </p>
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mine did that i have a 96 200efi the computer went south cost me 1000$ for a new computer that money you spent you could have taken to a shop with a computer and put the motor on it to find the problem thats what I did good luck emoBang emoBang
