Need some help...I am an idiot

[SpurHunter]

Ok so here is the skinny on the new-to-me motor I installed. Besides a heating or cooling issue I have, (think I have a solution for such). I screwed up when I bought this thing being I have a 21" transom, and I got a 25" shaft motor.

Please refrain from brow-beating, I already know it was a screw-up. I decided after much discussion with "experts" to go ahead with the install and see what would happen. I do not have a rocket ship this went on, so I thought even if I dont get to go 60 mph, it would still get me around well enough to use it. So I instaled it using the highest postion on the mounting bracket available. After testing it on the lake yesterday, I fully realize this is not going to work as installed right now. The cavitaion plate is too low in the water, and right above that, there is a "block" for lack of a better term, that goes around the shaft, that I believe is throwing a tremendous amount of water back against the boat, and into the transom well, in a "reverse rooster tail" so to speak. Being this is not a bass boat, but a Bay Style center console boat, most of the water coming in goes right back out, but I dont think this is a good idea at all, and shouldnt be used this way. I dont want to use a jack-plate, as it would push the motor back several inches, and cause a big headache with the stearing cable/shaft. Any idea or help is appreciated!</p>

 

[Bubbakat]

You have two options here Eric. or maybe three. Jack plate, swap lower unit out with a short shaft, Or install some plexi glass beside the motor on the transom to block the feed back from entering the boat.

And I don't see you as an idiot just some one that made a decision on a motor before finding out what you really needed. Been there and done that got the T shirt to show for it.

Me I would opt for the jack plate. You won't move it back but about six inches

 

[SNUFFY]

I`m not familiar with a bayboat type construction but with a longer than normal lower unit ...besides the extra leverage of the distance from the mounting point ,you also have the increased suface area of the unit actually exposed to the water rushing under the boat. Those two factors alone will put a much higher strain on the mounting bracket and transom. A friend has an 18' aluminum with a longshaft 25 Yamaha... the guy he bought it from had added a cast aluminum bracket to raise the engine and even added a matching knee brace inside to counter the increased strain from the first bracket. A very professional looking set up . I used it back in the winter to crappie fish a little one day and it didn`t take long to see that it wasn`t enough to keep the flex from taking place. Sooner or later it will pull the bolts thru the bottom of the hull on the knee brace.It scared me to watch it move around as much as it did and I took it back to him the next day and showed him what it was doing. He said the guy got a deal on the motor new and since realized the problems.
I guess my point is if you try to use it the way it is you may wind up spending more to adapt/beef it up and the other problems it may cause than you will to get a proper length lower unit.
In my mind the simple right fix is a short shaft lower unit. You should be able to reduce some of the cost by swapping your long shaft.....somebody needs those things.

 

[Flippen*1]

I agree with Snuffy. Remember, when you learn a lesson it's expensive, painfull, or both. In this case it's just the first one. Do it right and get the short shaft, it's the best bet in the long run.

 

[Liveliner]

Get a jackplate with a short back set that is adjustable up and down.  You will not have a cable issue with that.  If you move your engine back too far and up, that will not  help due to the curve of the water behind your transome.  I had a 4" jack plate that would have solved your problem.</p>

What kind of engine did you get?</p>

 

[SpurHunter]

Sorry should have stated it was an 85 Johnson/Evinrude 150.