Patching a hole in the hull...

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BassmanIU

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
1,091
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Ft. Oglethorpe
I noticed one of my trailer bunks was loose. I figured I'd wait until the water came up to fix it so I could dock my boat at my father-in-law's place. Well, yesterday afternoon as I was coming into the trailer at the ramp, the bunk floated up and I missed my mark. I backed off, and pulled it back up and out of the water. Well, when I pulled the drain plug, I noticed some water coming out. I checked hull underneath and noticed a 1-inch gash where I must have hit the trailer. It's not a complete hole but it does go through the gel coat.

Finally, my question emoLaugh

What should I get to patch up the hull? Is there some 3M sealant/epoxy that I get in a tube to patch it?

emoThanks
 
Fiberglass boat? Grind it and patch it with fiberglass. Then sand it smooth...put some good oil base paint over it.

If not that...Custom Boat works :)
 
yep he does .. bring it by , I can fix, thanx for the plug Spur .. but dont put oil based paint on the hull will peel off and blister.

If you want to fix your self, grind about 4-6 inches beyond the gouge, tapper the grinded area towards the gouge, if the glass is splintered cut the splintered area back until you get glass with no splinters, don't cut too much just enough to get back to solid glass, preferably a round or oval hole.

You will need a backer patch to put behind the hole , I use a piece of stitch mat just a 1 -2 inches larger than the hole wet it out with epoxy resin ( West System or other Brand ) on a piece of wax paper, let the backer cure, or you can use some g3 micarta it needs to be thin enuff to bend it so you can poke it thru the hole, on the patch drill 2 small holes in the center 2 inches apart, put some wire ( I prefer stainless steel wire ) make it long enuff to tie a weight to it, a brick or other such item to keep tension on the patch while the epoxy cures, Put epoxy inside the hole , try and stick you hand or fingers in the hole with some 80 grit sand paper to ruff up the inside of the hull, and do the same to the patch, put epoxy inside the hole couple inches inside the hole all the way around, and the patch too, just enuff on the backer patch to cover a inch or so of the edge of the patch to the edge of the hole.

When that cures, about 48 hrs, cut the wire then remove it, then you can patch the outside if the hull with epoxy and epoxy mat (e glass), make one patch that goes about 2 inches beyond your hole, then make 3 more patches about an inch smaller than the last, lay down a piece of parchment paper or heavy wax paper on a flat surface, wet the wax paper with epoxy resin,then wet the mat out, then lay the next smaller mat patch down and repeat do the same for all pieces.

When The last piece is wet out, pick up the patch you just made and line it up with the hole so it is centered over the hole, take a plastic squeegee like the ones used for bondo, and push out any air pockets, starting from center to the outside edges.

When that is done, leave the paper on it , you can remove after cured , about 48 hours in 70+ temp, after the patch has cured and paper removed. sand the patch area smooth , and then you can use either gel goat sprayed with a preval sprayer, or use a bottom paint that is made for boats, dont uses any thing but bottom paint or gelcoat.. nothing else will hold up.

Thats the short version of patching a hole in the hull.
 
It didn't go all the way through. So he doesn't need a backer. I was told by a guy who does fiberglass all the time bondo, yes bondo would work great. I looked at him funny as h*ll. Then he made the following statement, " what is the first compound in bondo". I looked and it was resin!!! It and fiberglass body filler are just differnt forms of fiberglass. Since then I have seen and head of alot of peope using it with no coming out. </p>

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I personaly would just grind it to a bevel and lay strips, combination of mat and cloth, in and fill higher than the gel. Then grind down and gel, just like "splicing" fiberglass. I uses a combination of mat and cloth for strenth. I had to shorten the top of my "race" boat and that is how I did it. You can beat on the patch, BEFORE I layer the back, with a hammer and it is solid. I tried to break it and it won't budge, of course my life depends on it holding!, then I flipped the top and re-enforced on the back. 400# boat +330HP= FUN!!!!But is named "BAD IDEAL"Hope to finish it this year. That is also how I do the transoms, european, that don't require the top removed.</p>
 
Thought you were going to fix the bunks the next time it went into the water!!! I knew we should have just lifted your boat off the trailer and fix them while you were here. Take a pic and post. Doesn't sound bad. But did it take on water????</p>

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Sean,</p>

How is my buddy's shadow coming??? Hey, Was that a copy/ paste!!LOL!!! J/K!!!!</p>
 
If water coming out it did go all the way through .. but what ever ... there is more than one way to patch a boat or fix glass.. but .. do what ever makes you happy lol .. personally Id rather do it right the first time and know I never have to worry about it

Bondo though yes is made with polyester resin, but it has no strength even the kitty hair versions never cure as hard as standard polyester resins .. and I dont know about you but Ive seen lots of bondo patches that cracked or came off all together on cars and boats.

And on the bottom of a boat , you really want it to hold , maybe if it was above the water line .. yes if you wanted to cheap skate it I guess you could use bondo above the water line..

This is just my 2 cents ..

All I can say is do your research before you go slapping something on there with out checking all the options..
 
That is why I said personally I would use fiberglass cloth and mat! LOL!!! Also wanted to rub ya a little!!LOL!!!!! emoPoke emoPoke But even fiberglass resin and mat will "POP" out if not properly preped. EXAMPLE, On my little boat they had tried to glass a plate of aluminum on and where the cloth was on the transon they didn't even sand it and it pealed off like bondo on a spreader. It didn't even try to stick. A buddly of mine reshaped his pad on his boat with bondo and it has been there for 6 or 7 years. If it is a structure repair, yes resin. Cosmetic could use it. Some of the ones you seen may not have been preped correctly, but as easy as the glass would be, it wouldn't take that much longer to it with resin/mat/coth for what size it is. I have used long strand bondoglass to blend in my nose cone , low water pickup, with no issues. It is a common product used. If it can handle high speeds sticking to aluminum, I don't see why it wouldn't stick to fiberglass at the same speeds. But I still would use resin/cloth/mat on a hull. Just my 2 cents worth. </p>

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He stated the water was coming out of thedrain plug and not the gouge.It is possible it is not leaking and may be more cosmetic.But more than likely it is the fource of the water. It may be coming in somewhere else and the gouge has been there and he just found it as he hasn't had the boat too long. May be a bad plug. Whoknows.</p>

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Like ya said, more than 1 way to skin a cat. I see people doing stuff to thier engines that make me shutter, and they last seem like forever and it isn't something I would do. Like starting them out of water!!!!! </p>

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Corey,</p>

If you want to fix it with resin/coth/mat I will give you what you need to fix it. Either myself or Sean can give you help. I like picking on Sean as you seen he just said," what ever!" He is a good guy, BUT REAL UGLY!!!! There are alot of videos on Youtube forfiberglass repair and gel-coat repair. It isn't rocket science , as Sean can do it!! LOL!!! J/K!!!!Just have to make sure you don't shortcut anything or it willbe a comprimised repair. His discription is a "Text Book" repair and a correct one. That is why I posted a "COPY/ PASTE" comment. He knows his stuff and would have to in order to take on that kind of business. He is in the process of doing a transom in one of my customers boat. If I didn't think he knew his stuff, I would not have sent him to Sean. You may run it by and let him give you a quote as it may be something your wife will let him do. I know she controls the MONEY!! Later!!!emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke </p>

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That's the thing...I really don't have that much in this boat. So I really don't want to pay very much to fix it. And I don't want to have to cut into the hull. I think I might just get a Polyester Resin Fiberglass repair kit and patch it up and go. If it takes on water, then I'll worry about getting it fixed professionally.
 
Youd be better off getting some epoxy resin and woven mat , boaters world had some .. but may be gone I was gonna check this week to see what kinda deal I could get on remaining stock of the MAS epoxy they carry. Epoxy is water proof. Polyester is not, you will still have to grind some back at least 2 -3 inches beyond the hole.. and you could, they also have bottom paint over there .. prob getting pretty cheap by now
 
Got some epoxy resin today. Said best used for thru-hulls, portholes, and stuff like that. After laying up underneath the boat, it's smaller than I thought. Looks like somebody stuck a steak knife up into it. It's not really a hole, just a gouge. I filled that baby up with epoxy and also around the hole just to be sure. Said it'll take 48-72 hours to cure.
 
You could ask EricM for some help. His boat has taken on LOTS of water in its years...might know what brand of Duct tape works best on boats as well,.
 
SHould have gone with the bondo glass. YOu could have been on the water in 30 minutes, cost $13, already has the fibers in it. For bigger holes they make bondo hair.
 
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