Last year I noticed my trim was leaking down fast enough you can see it slowly go down.I added fluid it didnt help.I cant see any leaks anywhere. Also,when loading boat,if I use the throttle to pull it up tight the motor would raise. Any advice on how to fix or how much $ to fix. Its a Merc.Black Max XR2. Thanks.
Power Trim ???
- Thread starter roll tide
- Start date
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dragfish
Well-known member
Send out the "Wrenchin signal"
Auburnwes
Well-known member
I have the same problem with my trim emoBang
You can replace some of the fluid with transmission stop leak which will help the seals in it.
Wrechin will point you in the right direction! He knows his outboards
good luck emoToast
You can replace some of the fluid with transmission stop leak which will help the seals in it.
Wrechin will point you in the right direction! He knows his outboards
good luck emoToast
M GO BLUE
Well-known member
I drained some of my OEM fluid and replaced it with TRANS-X (at the advice of James, of course) ..seems to have worked very well, but I think it all depends on how far gone the O-rings/seals are
dragfish
Well-known member
Think it would work on hydraulic steering?
I don't know about the steering........
If it is a TRUE XR2 it will have the intergrated trim. This will have 3 cylinders on the trim. There are a few causes for trim to "leak" down.....
One is the seals will get hard. The trans-x stuff will sometimes take care of it. IF the trans-x doesn't take care of it, the next step is to pull the pump out and replace 4 "o" rings inside the pump. Mercury only sells the pump. This is a "trick" we have found. While the side is off, we replace the 3 "o" rings on the bypass valve as sometimes they will leak and "BYPASS". Usually this will take care the issues. If not, the trim will come down, and resealed. Then you still have a check valve that can go bad, cheaper to replace the trim at this time.
The trim we are running on Wes' boat is leaking. So I need to replace the "o" rings in the pump and the bypass valve on one of my own. If that don't fix it, I will replace the unit with one of my others 4.
Hope this helps!!!
If it is a TRUE XR2 it will have the intergrated trim. This will have 3 cylinders on the trim. There are a few causes for trim to "leak" down.....
One is the seals will get hard. The trans-x stuff will sometimes take care of it. IF the trans-x doesn't take care of it, the next step is to pull the pump out and replace 4 "o" rings inside the pump. Mercury only sells the pump. This is a "trick" we have found. While the side is off, we replace the 3 "o" rings on the bypass valve as sometimes they will leak and "BYPASS". Usually this will take care the issues. If not, the trim will come down, and resealed. Then you still have a check valve that can go bad, cheaper to replace the trim at this time.
The trim we are running on Wes' boat is leaking. So I need to replace the "o" rings in the pump and the bypass valve on one of my own. If that don't fix it, I will replace the unit with one of my others 4.
Hope this helps!!!
First all, you are not frustrating me. LOL! </p>
The problem is this trim uses 2 sections... The small rods are TRIM cylinders and the large is a TILT cylinder. Once the trim is all the way down, the only portion that works is the TRIM. Once they reach the end of thier travel, then the fluid starts filling up the TILT ram. You have 2 circuits for fluid to fill the"Up" circuit and "down" circuit. These are 2 seperate circuits. When a seal can not SEPERATE these circuits then it will bleed down. When you trim it up and push on it, the fluid in the "UP" circuit is bypassing (leaking) to the "DOWN" circuit. The MOST common areas that this happens is the shuttle valves on the pump and the bypass screw on the side. But canalso be bad seals on the pistons in the rams. </p>
The job of the bypass screw is if the trim motor quits, you can open it up and this allows fluid to exchange very easily and you can manually pick it up. Sometimes the "O" rings stick ( 11 in the pic) and when someone messes with the screw, they tear causing a internal fluid leak. Or the valve is not all the way tight. </p>
Here is a breakdown of the trim. This is the later 90's but almost identical with very little differences. If there is a #5,#6, or #13 beside it....It is a seal and a possibility for leak. </p>
The only other thing is a high pressure check valve on the TILT ram. It's job is that if you have it trimmed up off the TRIM rods, then it bypasses and slam the engine down onto the rods. This is very uncommon, but a possibility. There is also a check valve on one of the TRIM ramsSo being able to push down on it doesn't give me any indication other than it has a internal leak. The trans conditioner may cure it. I have one that is leaking myself on Wes' bullet I will have to address. I also have one that I had to rebuild and put a new pump and motor in to repair it. The pump was leaking so bad internally that it filled the motor with fluid and ruined it. I kick it almost daily... Saving it for just the right use... emoThumbsup emoThumbsup emoToast </p>
Here is also a list of possibilities. You can also see some of how fluid flows by looking at the diagram at bottom. </p>
</p>
Hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to call me at 423-304-0930 anytime....emoToast </p>
The problem is this trim uses 2 sections... The small rods are TRIM cylinders and the large is a TILT cylinder. Once the trim is all the way down, the only portion that works is the TRIM. Once they reach the end of thier travel, then the fluid starts filling up the TILT ram. You have 2 circuits for fluid to fill the"Up" circuit and "down" circuit. These are 2 seperate circuits. When a seal can not SEPERATE these circuits then it will bleed down. When you trim it up and push on it, the fluid in the "UP" circuit is bypassing (leaking) to the "DOWN" circuit. The MOST common areas that this happens is the shuttle valves on the pump and the bypass screw on the side. But canalso be bad seals on the pistons in the rams. </p>
The job of the bypass screw is if the trim motor quits, you can open it up and this allows fluid to exchange very easily and you can manually pick it up. Sometimes the "O" rings stick ( 11 in the pic) and when someone messes with the screw, they tear causing a internal fluid leak. Or the valve is not all the way tight. </p>
Here is a breakdown of the trim. This is the later 90's but almost identical with very little differences. If there is a #5,#6, or #13 beside it....It is a seal and a possibility for leak. </p>
The only other thing is a high pressure check valve on the TILT ram. It's job is that if you have it trimmed up off the TRIM rods, then it bypasses and slam the engine down onto the rods. This is very uncommon, but a possibility. There is also a check valve on one of the TRIM ramsSo being able to push down on it doesn't give me any indication other than it has a internal leak. The trans conditioner may cure it. I have one that is leaking myself on Wes' bullet I will have to address. I also have one that I had to rebuild and put a new pump and motor in to repair it. The pump was leaking so bad internally that it filled the motor with fluid and ruined it. I kick it almost daily... Saving it for just the right use... emoThumbsup emoThumbsup emoToast </p>
Here is also a list of possibilities. You can also see some of how fluid flows by looking at the diagram at bottom. </p>
</p>
Hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to call me at 423-304-0930 anytime....emoToast </p>
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jwoutdoors
Well-known member
WOW, thats impressive wrenchin
canoe fisherman
Well-known member
emoWorthy---wrenchin
