prop shaft on a 1992 150 johnson
- Thread starter nate2800
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b.lee
Active member
First, why are you replacing the gears? Not knowing anything else about this repair, if the gears need replacement, there's a lot more that'll need attention in there. </p>
To answer your question, there's a tab washer and a bolt that holds the prop shaft bearing carrier in the housing. Remove that bolt, and the carrier and propshaftwill slide right out...</p>
... but that's considering this is a new motor, not a 19 year old one. Chances are there is some corrosion that will have locked the bearing carrier into the housing, unless it's been apart recently. It'll require some heat on the housing, a good puller, and a handful of luck to get it apart in servicable condition. Parts diagram below shows the retainer washer/bolt.</p>
I would offer you a suggestion, replace the whole thing. For enar the price of the gear set and additional needed bearings, seals, etc, you can buy an aftermarket unit with a warranty. www.sterndrive.cchas complete, brand new lower units for that motor, $845. </p>
To answer your question, there's a tab washer and a bolt that holds the prop shaft bearing carrier in the housing. Remove that bolt, and the carrier and propshaftwill slide right out...</p>
... but that's considering this is a new motor, not a 19 year old one. Chances are there is some corrosion that will have locked the bearing carrier into the housing, unless it's been apart recently. It'll require some heat on the housing, a good puller, and a handful of luck to get it apart in servicable condition. Parts diagram below shows the retainer washer/bolt.</p>
I would offer you a suggestion, replace the whole thing. For enar the price of the gear set and additional needed bearings, seals, etc, you can buy an aftermarket unit with a warranty. www.sterndrive.cchas complete, brand new lower units for that motor, $845. </p>
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thanks alot for the response but , ive got the section youve got highlighted on the diagram out its the shaft itself i cant get out .. the reason is the pinion gear has some bad chipped spots on it so i can only assume i need to go ahead and replace it ... BUT i got with Eddie at boats and motors of dalton and he said if i would just bring the lower unit and the gear set he would replace it for me since i bought it from them and he wouldnt charge me out the rear
b.lee
Active member
The carrier will very likely be stuck in the housing. If you haven't got it out, how do you know the pinion gear is chipped?
They do get dmg'd from a variety of causes, from metal shrapnel floating around in case to labrication issues causing spalling on the gear tooth faces.
In either case I would be suspect of replacing only the gears, as they shouldn't fail or wear out for no reason. Something else is likely happening in there.
They do get dmg'd from a variety of causes, from metal shrapnel floating around in case to labrication issues causing spalling on the gear tooth faces.
In either case I would be suspect of replacing only the gears, as they shouldn't fail or wear out for no reason. Something else is likely happening in there.
M GO BLUE
Well-known member
Take it to Eddie Pope in Charelston...He will hook you up CHEAP
b.lee
Active member
Ah, I didn't realize you already had the carrier out.
You need to disengage the shift rod that rides inside the prop shaft. It's been a while since I've had an OMC lower apart, but I think if you remove the shift rod and plate, you'll disengage the shift rod, and the prop shaft should come right out.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the spring and pin from the clutch dog, without removing the shift shaft and plate. The clutch dog has a spring wrapped around it that holds the clutch pin thru the clutch dog and shift rod in the prop shaft.
I'm just thinking out loud, as it's been a while since I've worked on one of these. A service manual will clear this up right away. Some libraries have Chiltons or Haynes manuals, or you might ask around, maybe someone will let you look through one. I'm still of the opinion that you should have a service manual for most nything you own and plan to work on! It's always money well spent.
You need to disengage the shift rod that rides inside the prop shaft. It's been a while since I've had an OMC lower apart, but I think if you remove the shift rod and plate, you'll disengage the shift rod, and the prop shaft should come right out.
Alternatively, you may be able to remove the spring and pin from the clutch dog, without removing the shift shaft and plate. The clutch dog has a spring wrapped around it that holds the clutch pin thru the clutch dog and shift rod in the prop shaft.
I'm just thinking out loud, as it's been a while since I've worked on one of these. A service manual will clear this up right away. Some libraries have Chiltons or Haynes manuals, or you might ask around, maybe someone will let you look through one. I'm still of the opinion that you should have a service manual for most nything you own and plan to work on! It's always money well spent.
You remove the shift rod and plate then push the ear down. The only thing is that it requires special tools to set the gear set up. I second Eddie Pope. He has done some for my guys and is dirt cheap!
What made you look at the gears? I have seen many with some "pits" in the gears and causes no issues. It is just how they were hardened from what I understand.
What made you look at the gears? I have seen many with some "pits" in the gears and causes no issues. It is just how they were hardened from what I understand.
basser#9
Well-known member
on a side note, u have to buy the whole gear as a set not buy there self's anymore. around $500 unless u get lucky and find them on e-bay
emoSorry
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