Question,attach electronics to crank or trolling battery?

[jcv]

I have 1 cranking battery and 2 trolling motor batteries.
When I got the boat the electronics were running off the cranking battery.
I have read some articles that said to attach the electronics to the trolling motor batteries.
Which way is best?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
jcv

 

[Andrew]

Cranking battery

 

[mmarcum6]

I have two batteries and also have a perko switch installed so I can crank my motor off either battery. I run all electronics off the deep cycle trolling battery. If it goes dead in the middle of the lake I can always crank my big motor and make it home. The deep cycle is also good for delivering a constant output over long periods.

 

[jcv]

Would appreciate your opinions on how you have yours connected.
Thanks.

 

[Hair Jig]

If it is convenient, I always run ANY accessories to the trolling batteries. I don't want anything on the crank battery except the motor. This is even more important with the newer motors that require a minimum amount of amperage from the battery.

 

[gray1402]

I thought, and this may be wrong, but if you have a 12/24 volt trolling motor, that if you ran your electronics to the trolling batteries, that the electronics could get zapped by the 24 volts since the batteries are coupled together.... again just what I thought...

G

 

[bluewingjb]

Actually unless I am mistaken, at least on my setup which is a 24v, the way the 24v gets to the troll motor is through the special plug. This is no place where my 2 batteries connect together its the plug setup that marries the 2 batteries for the troll motor. I have one of my depth finders wired to one of the troll motor batteries and I am going to move it back to the starting battery. The reason is when the troll motor batteries get low the depth finder connected to them will show a spike on the screen when I depress the power button on the foot control.. This is frustrating and if the battery power is low enough it will cause the sonar unit to shut off when I hit the power button on the foot control, especially if I have the variable knob for power up around 80% or higher.. I dont like the idea of the power fluctuating like that all the time to the unit so I am switching it back to the main battery. The only reason I put it on the troll batteries was because my voltage regulators on the engine we shot and I was having to recharge my starting battery about every 10 days and didnt want anything extra on it, not that I have replaced both regulators I will move the sonar unit back to it.

 

[Basshopper]

</p>

on my previous boat I had the front electronics tied in with the 24v battery panel and all worked well for about a year until one day one of my trolling batteries shorted out and before I detected what was going on with my batteries , it had fried my electronics. </p>

I posted a similar question on this board at that time about what was the best method, and the over whelming response was to hook electronics up to your cranking battery. I changed that boat over to the cranking battery after buying a new scanner. The ranger new to me boat I know have has electronics hooked up to the cranking battery and I haven't had any issues. I run the the electronics wide open all day long and don't have any cranking issues. </p>

(Keep in mind, I don't have the 10" screens which might make a difference)</p>

</p>

good luck on it.
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