Remove auto-mix on older Johnson??

[THutch]

A few years ago I bought a boat with an older, late 80s / early 90s, Johnson 110hp outboard. I figure life will get busy later this month and I will likley take some time away from the water. That should present an opportunity to have any needed servicing done to the motor. This motor has an auto mix oil injection system. By that, I mean there is an oil reservior in the boat that pumps oil to the motor. I have heard, and agree, that should it stop pumping I could easily burn up the motor. While that is a concern, I pray the alarm would sound and alert me to turn the motor off. Also, I am a firm believer in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'm interested in your recommendations on removing the auto-mix and pre-mixing like most motors are currently designed or leaving it alone? And, if I choose to remove it, who should I have do the work? And what do you think it might cost. Thanks in advance for your insight.

 

[EricM]

The removal is extremely simple, and then you just mix the gas/oil when you fill up. I run a 1985 Johnson 140 that had the VRO oiling, and everything was fine until the plastic hose fittings disintegrated and starved the motor. It only takes seconds to destroy it, and the best part of $3000 to repair it. I had them pull the automatic oiling when they rebuilt it (at the dealer's suggestion), and have had no problems. To the best of my knowledge, they simply disconnected the hose and plugged the fitting on the motor. There may be more to it than that. I then removed the oil tank (and put another battery in it's place).

 

[hl&s]

Good info EricM. I think there is also a sensor that has to be disconnected at the pump to keep the warning beep from coming on. The early VRO systems don't have a very good reputation. Mixing the oil and gas takes the worry away.

 

[SpurHunter]

That is correct on the warning system. I had purchased an 85 Johnson 150, and the VRO was disonected, but the sensor was not. Quite aggrivating with the dang buzzer going off constantly.

</p>

I say discontect that sucker if you have any incling that it will fail. Premixing gas is not the end of the world. IMHO</p>

 

[Bubbakat]

THutch get me the model number off that motor so I can find the year. If it is the kind that had the tank that sat by itself in the boat then by all means dissconnect it. After 1989 they had pretty much worked the bugs out of the vro's but not the auto lube system.
If the tank sets seperatly then it should have two wires running to it from the motor to a low oil sensor and you need to cut those and tape them off.
With the model number I can dertmine the type of oiler system you have though.

 

[THutch]

Bubbakat - the model # is J110TLAEM. I've never been able to nail down the year as the "M" doesn't make any sense to me. If you could decipher what the "M" is in the "INTRODUCES" code, I'd be greatful.

I'm convinced to have the work done. Most topics on this forum have numerous differences in opinion. This one seems to have a consensus.

Any recommendations on a local marine motor shop to do the work?

 

[Bubbakat]

J is johnson
110-- horse power
T-- tilt&trim
L--- 20 inch transom
A --- is unknown should be another letter not an A
E---9
M-- production run number. Has no meaning to us as buyers only to builders. Mfg code.


Re check that model number on the A to make sure its an A

You can handle this job your self and save some bucks. I'll get you the instructions if you want or tell me how quick you need it done.

 

[Bubbakat]

Went and done some more checking in my big book and this is a rare occassion that this motor wasn't included in the introduce line of handing down model numbers. It is in fact a 1989 model

110TLAE 110 1989

 

[THutch]

You're the man Bubbakat. I have posed that question many times since I have owned this motor and you are the first to answer difinitively. BTW, I have double checked the A numerous times as well. Thanks again to everyone for your help.

 

[fischnrod]

I have a 1988 evinrude 110 with the oiler disconnected and have yet to have problems with it since it was disconnected in the early part of the 90's, I would'nt have it any other way. I have a 1995 model 225 mariner that i also mix my own oil and gas.emoCool


Bubbakat is the man!

 

[Bubbakat]

The only way you can go wrong in mixing your own oil is to forget to add the oil. I use a baby bottle to measure my fuel mix but those VRO systems get the blame for a lot of engine failures that was the fault from either dirty carbs or hole in the fuel line causing a beep from low fuel warning. Those motors with the external tank I don't like because you had to draw the oil up to the motor. In the mid eighties when OMC and Merc were fighting for the front of the market there was a lot of addition to the oiling systems.
You can take most techs and they really don't understand the VROs. They know how they work and the warnings but don't understand why it acts up at times. From 1989 on the oiling systems on those outboards have been greatly improved.
I recently bought a merc 100 with the VRO oil injection system and I'll keep it on it . It is gear driven and the pump is simple to rebuild. These pumps are designed to run the mix at 50:1 at wot and when back to idle it is suppose to run at 100:1
Sorry for the babbling guys.

 

[EricM]

Thanks Bubbacat! Really great info!!!!