Replacing a floor

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Flipping WURMS

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Ive got a 79 stryker with a rotted floor.ive ripped up the carpet down to the hull and foam.What type of plywood would you use and how do you waterproof it .Any ideas would be appreciated.Thanx
 
You need to use "marine grade" plywood, it's already treated. Not sure if home improvement stores carry it but someone like NRG should be chiming in on this. Good luck.
 
Well first of all pictures of what you have would help me answer better, pics of the floor and the foam.
Did you remove the foam ? If the answer is YES, then you will need to get foam to replace what you removed, That is the flotation for the boat if it ever starts to sink .. it will keep it a float.

The wood , use 1/2 exterior grade plywood a/c or b/c ... You have two choices, you can use either polyester resin or epoxy resin.. polyester resin is widely available in Chattanooga, the epoxy resin you will have to order from the internet.
My suggestion for the polyester resin is Kick Shaw on Hixson pike, its $25 per gallon, you will need at least 2 gallons
While there get 1-2 lbs of chop its small pieces of chopped fiberglass. They also sell the 1.5oz mat , and they also sell fab mat pieces .. you will need enuff of that the go around the edge of the floor, 4 inches wide , and the 2 part foam you will need if you removed the foam from under the floor.
If you buy from auto parts stores etc .. it will run you 50-80 per gallon, and the stuff from auto parts stores etc .. is crapola.

You need to cut the floor to size, and then coat the back side with resin, get enuff 1.5 oz fiberglass mat to seal the back side. Use a 3inch " CHIP " brush to apply a liberal coat to the plywood, then lay the mat over that using the brush apply more resin and push the resin from center out to edges you want ZERO air bubbles. You can use a 1/4" nap paint roller to roll out the remaining bubbles.
You have 15 mins or less depending on how much you make at once .. I would recommend making batches of 8 oz time until the back side of floor is covered.
Let that cure over night it needs to be inside in 60 - 75 degrees to cure.
Then flip over , test fit again, if still fits good, mix up a 1/2 qt of resin and add enuff of the chop glass till mixing it well until like thin putty.
Take a putty knife and lay that down along the edges of the bottom of boat and where the new floor touches the edge of the boat, this will glue it down to the boat hull, make sure you use a grinder 40 grit flap disk to ruff up the old glass or the new wont stick.
AFter you quickly put that down, you have about 15 mins to get that down and the new floor in place.. Use Dry Concrete blocks, or anything heavy to hold floor down until the chopped glass glue is cured.

While that is curing you need to put some more of the chop glass putty mixture along the edges of the floor, cut you fab mat pieces into 4 inch wide pieces how ever many it take to go around entire floor.
And then mix some reg resin without the chop .. After that lay the fab mat pieces on a piece of old clean dry board, and wet both sides of the glass pieces until its no longer white.. again remember you have 15 mins to wet it and get it in the boat, and the bubbles out!!
After you have gone around the floor with the fab mat, let that cure over night leaving the weight on the new floor

The Next day .. remove the weights, clean the floor, removing dirt etc .. make more reisn up, wet the top side of the floor, and then lay layer of 1.5 mat and wet it out, then while that is still wet add an additional 1-2 layers.. no more than 3.. Make sure you overlap all pieces.
Then when that is cured ( Overnight ) your ready for carpet if you did it all right.

Now for the Epoxy version.. Pretty much the same, except that you dont use the 1.5oz mat, you use 6-10oz woven cloth instead of the mat.

No matter which one you use make sure you put resin on all edges, and any drain holes you cut, I would recommend putting Devcon 2ton epoxy on all drain holes and edges if you use the polyester resin

The Epoxy resin best price is USComposites.com and the glass mat and cloth as well

This is the short version, there is more I could tell or show you in person, and pics of what y0u have would help

Good Luck

If you decide its more than you can handle.. I do this kind of work every day at my shop ( North River Boat Restoration and repair ) 423-580-9277 on Hixson Pike in Hixson
 
Shankopotamus - 10/26/2009 5:37 PM

You need to use "marine grade" plywood, it's already treated. Not sure if home improvement stores carry it but someone like NRG should be chiming in on this. Good luck.

Nope you dont need MARINE grade.. its not water proof, and its not available around here, and if you do order it it will cost you min of 150 per sheet plus freight cost of $150

Marine plywood and exterior grade plywood both use the same glue. The difference between the two is that marine plywood is supposed to void free.

Marine-grade plywood is not treated with any chemicals to enhance its resistance to decay. If decay is a concern, it should be pressure-preservative treated to an appropriate standard.

But Fiberglass Resins WILL NOT STICK to Pressure Treated lumber, it will peel off within days or weeks, and even pressure treated will rot covered with carpet and not allowed to dry

All you need is A/C or C/D exterior grade plywood
 
THANKS Im trying to get someone over here to take some pictures.i dont have it covered and the foam is exposed but intacked.the runners that the plywood is rotted what would you recommend replacing those 1x4s with material wis.im really poor i got this boat from a friend to replace some hardwood for him.i live off ashland terrace and am usually home from 12-6 before work gonna try and get the materials tomm and start wednesday
 
If your floor and runners are rotted .. your transom 99.9% sure its rotted too... very few arent if all that is .. you might as well take the cap off and plan on replacing all the wood.. you can do this outside this time of year, the temp for at least 12 hrs needs to be above 60.
Send me your email address and I will send you a PDF book on how to do the transom and stringers.. basically you have a project that is going to cost you a good 600-1200 to do ... if you just half a** do it you will have to do it all over again, soon!!
Dont even start on this unless you have or can borrow, a grinder, saw-zaw, lots of clamps, a warm dry place to do this , a couple of comealongs, a a garage rafters or some other way to remove the top, a circular saw, and a jigsaw.
Read over all the info , and do not skip any steps.. your life is on the line.. you can do it a little at a time.. but plan on it taking you several months to do it all.. I have 2 trees with a steel beam between them if you want to borrow it to remove the top, but you will need a car hauler or some thing like that to lay the top on to haul it back home until you get the other stuff fixed.


Butt once its all done you will have a boat that will last you a good 20 yrs, and if done properly it will last at least 40.. I can help you along the way .. trust me I would have killed to have someone like my self to help me the first time I did it 10 yrs or more ago.
 
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