tach problem

[epaul]

tach quit working and voltiage meter doing crazy sometimes Merc XR6 150 . What to check?

 

[m17glock]

if you are lucky it may just be some loose wires on the gauges . if your not lucky (like me ) then it could be the voltage regulator pack (under the coils on that model i believe) i am sure wrenchen will have a good idea as well

 

[Guest]

wrenchin can tell ya!!

 

[wrechin2]

The weak link is the bullet connections. They will get loose. That should have a 4 wire 40 amp system as most 2.5's do. If the yellow wires are loose it will cause charging havic and the tach works off counting poles and this will get interuped with a loose connection. If a regulator is going down (has 2 of them) they are very EXPENSIVE. They are like $185 each and the stator is around $425. Good news is that this is 2 charging systems built into 1. you can switch to the other regulator and see if the tach works. I keep a good tach just to test to see if a tach/ wiring or regulator. Hope this helps!!!

 

[hl&s]

I had this same problem on my 98 150 EFI last year. Wrenchen2 has hit the nail on the head, as usual. Check the yellow wires from the stator to the regulators at the regulator bullet connectors. Mine were burnt and had turned black. I replaced them and for awhile the tach worked OK. Then it started being erratic so I changed the gray tach signal wire from the regulator it was connected to to the other regulator gray wire. Tach worked ok again for awhile but then it and the charging systemfailed. I think the problems (spikes,low voltage)caused by current flow through the burnt connectors got the best of the original regulators. I replaced them both and haven't had anymore problems. Use some di-electric grease in the bullet connectors when servicing them. You can purchase it at just about any parts store.

 

[ditchdoc666]

emoThumbsup good info to look at

 

[wrechin2]

I believe it is a little more than what the connectors can hold. I sometimes use a special splice(not butt connector) and you don't have the issue anymore. You physically can not pull them apart. Just me though....

 

[epaul]

Thanks guys but what is the stator where what,s it look like. I know where the starter is and the flywheel looking thing is . sorry guy need picture looks like I got takeit to somebody?

 

[wrechin2]

On the back of the engine(between the spark plugs) you will see 4 large yellow wires. They go to 2 square boxes behind the plate where the coils are mounted. They have bullet connectors on them.That are what we are refering to.

 

[epaul]

OK mine has some kinda plate over the boxes. The yellow wire that you talk about they are conected twice the rubber coating is cracked around the connection the crack is long ways I can't really see the other connection because of the plate. maby I can take that plate off and see? Can you check those boxes with a electric meter.and thanks maby I'm getting somewhere
Thanks wrenchin2



MY problem seems to be the same as hl&s burnt connections just what I can see

Thanks yall

 

[wrechin2]

That plate is your coil plate. Like I said it is BEHIND the plate. No testing them unless you have a Peak Voltage Adaper and you would be checking the voltage of the stator and not the box itself. It is usually the connections where the 4 yellow wires connect. Like I said, it is better to bypass that with a special splice or new bullet connectors ($9 for 6 pairs).

Is the tach working now???

 

[epaul]

no but the voltage meter is and somtimes the needle will go over to 18 when I'm running

I just cleaned the two connections I can get to and the tach will move when I turn the switch on it wouldn't do that so looks like the connection like you said. Thanks again

 

[Oldman]

heck mine was not that simple.

 

[wrechin2]

call me and I can walk you through some simple diag. Later!
423-304-0930