Looking for someone who really knows their way around the electrical system. Ive had it to an independent repair shop for 3 weeks and they couldn’t find it, the dealership for another two weeks with no luck. It’s a very low draw that takes two to three weeks to drain the battery. The truck only has 60k on it so I’d rather not get rid of it. I’m in the Hixson area if you guys know the guru of electrical issues. HELP!
2008 Chevy Avalanche with electrical gremlins
- Thread starter Randy H
- Start date
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I deal with shops on a daily basis. I will give you a few shops to try but I will say that a low voltage draw will be tough to find in most cases.
Red bank auto electric. They specialize in electrical repairs on autos.
Maxi Auto Service on East Brainerd Rd. Ask for Nathan Rhodes
Bowyer Automotive is new to the Hixson area. I have heard he is really good. I can’t speak from experience I just know he left the dealership to start his own shop.
Let me know if you do not have any luck. I deal with over 30 shops around Georgia Tennessee and Alabama. I’ll try and help you get it somewhere that can track it down.
Red bank auto electric. They specialize in electrical repairs on autos.
Maxi Auto Service on East Brainerd Rd. Ask for Nathan Rhodes
Bowyer Automotive is new to the Hixson area. I have heard he is really good. I can’t speak from experience I just know he left the dealership to start his own shop.
Let me know if you do not have any luck. I deal with over 30 shops around Georgia Tennessee and Alabama. I’ll try and help you get it somewhere that can track it down.
Thanks Will. I pretty good with most automotive stuff but when it comes to electrical I don’t have the patience. I need to find someone who can isolate each system to track down the draw. I think I’ll give Red bank a shot. It’s a pretty common issue with GM products from 06 - 10 from what I’ve read. No real answers on where to start.
lafae7
Well-known member
Sounds like alternator or starter shorting out maybe. It's rare but happens. Big maybe but I'd check those out because they will both function to the point where you would never know they are the cause.
chillerman69
Well-known member
How old is your battery? A new battery covers up a lot of problems. I have an '08 Sierra and until this week, has never gone more than 3 days without being started. Also, if your battery isn't new and has been checked good, I'd get another one. I've had several batteries in my life check good at auto parts and ended up being the problem. I think there's supposed to be a draw on the battery, the little flashing lights and memory chips require something but have no idea what it is and how long a battery is supposed to last. My brother has several vehicles he doesn't drive and uses a Battery Tender. He swears they have ruined a couple of batteries but other people swear by them. I know you asked for a tech but I swear this almost seems like a battery issue. The 48 series battery in my truck looks small to me but hasn't let me down, yet. Wife has a 2014 Sierra and hers is bigger. good luck
The alternator is charging at 14.4 volts so we ruled that out and the starter well when it has enough power from the battery is working. I’m not ruling either out but it seems that it’s an intermittent draw that I’m dealing with. The truck sat for three weeks using it once a week everything was good one morning one turn and dead. Appreciate the help, open for all suggestions.
chillerman69
Well-known member
I forgot about the good old security system. I't hasn't bit me in several years but I know it's coming. I never shut my truck off on the ramp because of it. Mine shows a padlock in the dash when it won't start. It thinks somebody is trying to steal it.
The battery load testing they do has a flaw in it. I'm not sure what it is but they'll tell you their battery or another brand is good and it can/will fail, just like yours is doing. It's probably a crack in the plates, that touches most of the time or something like that.
My alternator will stop charging on a long run. It took me 9 years to spot it but it's designed to save fuel on the freeways. If it an go on and off when it's supposed to, probably can when it's not
The battery load testing they do has a flaw in it. I'm not sure what it is but they'll tell you their battery or another brand is good and it can/will fail, just like yours is doing. It's probably a crack in the plates, that touches most of the time or something like that.
My alternator will stop charging on a long run. It took me 9 years to spot it but it's designed to save fuel on the freeways. If it an go on and off when it's supposed to, probably can when it's not
Lx545 & Chillerman, thanks for the leads. I had an airbag sensor replaced and that’s one of the codes that keeps coming back. The Stabilink warning is one that shows up as well. Hard part is that low battery voltage will cause the sensors to throw codes. Nine years to locate the problem! You’re a better man than me...hope I’m not talking about this that far out 
Have you checked the current on the fuses. There are only so many that have current without the ignition being on. You would need a manual to see which ones have constant power and then how much and test with an meter. I use to use a test light disconnect the cable and put it between the battery and cable and start pulling fuses till the light went dim or out. That will tell you what system your problem is coming from.
To build on what Pop-R said.... Run a parasitic draw test on it. Get a battery quick disconnect and install on the negative post of the battery. Drive the vehicle for 5 minutes at speeds above 30mph to wake up all modules. Return home (shut vehicle off) and install Digital Meter set to DC Amps in series on the battery quick disconnect you previously installed, battery connect should still be closed at this point. Put negative lead from meter between post and quick disconnect where it clamps to the post. Install positive lead on the outside of the quick disconnect, this will have your meter wired in series and will give current a path to follow. Be sure to move your positive lead cable to the fused jack on your voltage meter or you will blow the fuse in the meter. Turn the meter on and to the DC Amps position once youve done all of this and open the quick disconnect, now the circuit for the negative cable remains intact through the lead cables from your meter. Allow the vehicle to sit (it should be turned off once you return home) for 40 minutes to allow all modules to go to sleep. Monitor your meter periodically during this time to verify that your Amp reading is dropping. After 40 minutes you should be well under 1 Amp reading on your meter. Ford (who I work for) and I'm pretty sure the industry spec is .05 Amp (50 milliamps) or below. If you have a reading over .05 Amp after 40 minutes it is time to isolate the draw. This is very simple. Make sure all doors, lights, accessories are turned off (do this when you shut the vehicle off). Start at the battery junction box (the fuse box under the hood) and begin removing fuses individually. Watch the Amp reading as you pull (and reinstall) each fuse individually. Once you pull the fuse that causes your reading to drop below .05 Amp you have now isolated your parasitic draw. Check your owners publication to see what component the fuse provides circuit protection for and you will have found the culprit. I will note that this can be done without a battery quick disconnect if you don't want to buy one. If this is the case, simply remove the negative cable from the terminal and put your positive (red) lead into it to where it will stay. Once this is done, clamp or secure your negative lead to the battery post. Also don't leave your key in the ignition while performing this test because it will create a load on a circuit as well. You want everything completely powered down (the way it sits in the driveway when you are in the house reading fishing reports). I hope this helps you find your gremlin!
Wow! You guys are way outta my league.
Pop-r and trickwrm...you guys know your stuff when it comes to electrical. Im fairly good with mechanical but a rookie when it comes to electrical systems. I’m looking for a mechanic (interested trickwrm?) who can do what you thoroughly explained. I appreciate all the help.
Here’s a new twist. My wife just informed me that my father-in-law got in the truck last night to get something and when he unlocked and opened the door the radio came on and lights were flashing (not sure which lights).
I think I need an exorcism not a mechanic.
Pop-r and trickwrm...you guys know your stuff when it comes to electrical. Im fairly good with mechanical but a rookie when it comes to electrical systems. I’m looking for a mechanic (interested trickwrm?) who can do what you thoroughly explained. I appreciate all the help.
Here’s a new twist. My wife just informed me that my father-in-law got in the truck last night to get something and when he unlocked and opened the door the radio came on and lights were flashing (not sure which lights).
I think I need an exorcism not a mechanic.
Sure man I'll take a look for you. Your audio control module could be shorted to power and not shutting down causing a drain/draw on the battery, the draw test will let us know. Lemme do some more research though because audio control module and instrument cluster should be on two totally different circuits but powered by the body control module which is another fuse block usually located in the cab of the vehicle behind either the driver or passenger kick panels.
