Drop Shotting 101

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MrWiskers

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After getting half a dozen PM's on how to setup and fish a drop shot I figured I would post a how to. I amno expert but I do pretty good so I thought I would share what works for me. So lets get started.</p>

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<u>Rod/Reel and Line</u></p>

Fluorocarbon, fluorocarbon, fluorocarbon and fluorocarbon. I rank this as a must. 90% of the bites on drop shot are when the bait is falling and if you want to have any chance of feeling these you need line with low stretch. I use 6 lb Berkely 100% Pure Fluoro, which is equivalent to 8 lb Pline fluoro. The fluoro also is less visible in the water which is a plus. 6 lb is about the lightest line I feel good using, and is strong enough to handle anything you will hook using a dropshot as the fish are typically in open water andyou can wear them down. I have boated 30 lb blue cats on this 6 lb line so a 3-4 lb largemouth does not stand a chance. Light line is crucial as thicker line will kill the action of the bait.</p>

You want to use a long rod. 6.5 ft minimum, medium action rod. I use spinning tackle which is recommended but I know others that use bait casters. The long rod will allow you to sweep the line up quick and get a good hook set on the fish. NOTE: Do not, I repeat do NOT set the hook hard using this setup. The finese hooks will cut their way out of a fish on a hard hookset and you will lose the fish. All you need to do is sweep the rod up untilyou engage the fish and start reeling, really like using a circle hook. This make dropshotting perfect for beginners or people that are not used to fishing.</p>

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<u>Terminal Tackle</u></p>

I use 1/0 or 2/0 Gamakatsu finese hooks. I tie a improved clinch knot and then run the tag line (which I keep about 2 feet long) through the eye which makes the hook stand straight out. This is important to get the proper action from the bait (see pic below). Do not be confused by the little hooks, these things will hold anything. I have caught 30 lb blues on these, 20+ lb drum, 3-4 lb largemouths, etc. The small hooks actually hook the tougher parts of the fish's mouth and actually hold better than larger hooks.</p>

For sinkers you can save your money and just by the cheap casting sinkers or egg sinkers. No need for the fancy drop shot sinkers. I use 1/2 oz. You want a heavy weight as it helps get the bait to the bottom and believe it or not, it helps you feel the bait and hits better. I usually tie sinker 16-24" down from the hook. I like a longer leader from the hook to the sinker as I feel it gives the bait more action. </p>

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<u>Baits</u></p>

You can use almost anything but I have the best luck using minnow imitations or finese worms. We have had some luck using tubes as well and small 3" or so crawfish imitations. I use the Gulp 4" minnows the most or use 4" Powerworms. I would recommend trying different baits as they all work at times.</p>

You will want to hook the bait through the nose as this prevents the bait from twisting too bad (see pics below). You could also put a swivel 3-4 feet up your line from the hook if line twist becomes an issue.</p>

<u>When and Where to Fish</u></p>

I have the best luck after the spawn when the fish start going deep and continue having good luck until the fall. I look for channel ledges and drop offs, typically in or around the main river channel. Look for drops that go from 10-30 feet or more, however drops of only 2-3 feet in deeper water will hold fish at times. The key is to mark fish or bait balls onyour graph before fishing. No fish on the graph, then no fish. Of course you need good electronics. I recommend a unit with 4000 watts of power as it gives the best returns, and color is a plus. Troll around before you make a cast and look for fish on the graph. Once located you can then present them different baits until you determine what they want. This is what we do and I have attached some graph pics below to show you what to look for. Takes a lot less time to troll around looking for fish than it does blind casting hoping they are down there.</p>

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<u>How to Fish</u></p>

I usually do a medium cast and let the sinker go to the bottom. I then reel up the slack until I feel the sinker. At this time I will shake my rod tip to make the bait dance a little. Only more the rod tip 2-3 inches as you want the bait to be stationary but still move, then let the bait fall to the bottom. If nothing happens I will hop the sinker a few feet and repeat. Between each hope I will let the bait drop to the bottom on slack line again. Most strikes will occur when the bait is falling.</p>

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Good luck out there. If you have any more questions just send me a PM.</p>
 

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emoWorthy emoWorthy Michael. The only thing I could contribute is if you don't want to tie the extra knots for the swivel (to prevent line twist), reel up slowly when you're going to cast again. That'll keep the line twist to a minimum.
 
I have had a lot of success with this same rig but I usually tie a palomar knot and use the egg sinkers. I have also had a lot of luck with the chompers drop shot worms. I also like to use mono line because it seems to help the bait dance better when it sits up. Thanks for the info MW.
 
that is great Mr. W. thats what this forum is all about.
I appreciate you taking the time to write that out and include the pics.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post all of this information. I've been blindly trying the dropshot a little bit and this will really help. emoThumbsup emoWorthy emoBigsmile
 
A word of caution....if you are fishing a bass tournament you might want to think twice about using the power minnows. Those stinking slim fish like them and when you get a big kitty on it might take fifteen or so minutes that you could be bass fishing just to get the catfish in to release it. emoDoh On light line you have to take your time.

Wisker's...good looking post, if someone cannot follow that you need to take up golf or knitting. emoRolleyes Jmax
 
Great and thorough post Michael.

I like the drop shot sinkers, as they use the swivel to help minimize some of the line twist. The sinkers are expensive, which is why 5-6 years ago I invested in a mold for the finesse model weights. Another item you mentioned that cannot be understated is the need to use fluorocarbon. The invisibility, plus the low line stretch, make it vital to detect some of the lighter bites. I use Triple-fish, which is a good fluoro for the money. As for a rod, I also like a rod in the 6.5-7 foot range in medium with a fast action.

When I first started using the technique, I found that when the bite became real tough, I could use smaller senkos in the 3-4 inch range to coax a bite when other baits would not seem to be effective. I have also used a goby bait from Po' Boys with some promising results.

I attended a seminar several years ago that included Penny Berryman. She took the opportunity to show that you do not want to "overshake" your bait, but you can almost tap the rod blank to give the bait excellent action in the water without overdoing it.
 
EXCELLENT information, sir. Thank you for taking the time. To help deal with the line twist issue, I've been experimenting with braid with about a 3' fluoro leader. The results have been promising. FWIW, I'm using 30/8 Power Pro with 8# Pline fluoro attached with a double-uni.
 

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