i want a boat so bad i can't stand it!

[mallardecho]

Ram Jack Scott - 8/4/2008 9:20 PM

you can not put a price tag on a mans happiness

Unfortunately a woman can..............

 

[bigsack]

gee i didn't expect to get such a response! you guys are great!

lil mutt: that is a nice boat you have right there, im still on the fence if its right for me to get one right now. but you have sparked my interest.

NRG: i really appreciate your perspective about the up keep costs to keep one running and floating right, and that's something im still studying right now. up keeping a car and a pick-up truck vs' up keeping a boat and a pick-up.

pointer: i looked the other day at craigslist. really just to get an idea of whats out there.

ram jack and mallard: luckily im not married, BUT i might as well be... so technically my old lady has no say over what i do... emoEvil

OK guy, say i do decide to get one. what are some general "rule of thumb" things to look for in boats? features, equipment, things to avoid, etc... either way i'd need to sell my car first.

 

[honkytonker26]

Man my advice is to sell your car and hang on to that cash. If you find a boat then try and sell your car, you will miss the boat. Get that cash in your hand and start looking. Here is some more advice on buying a cheaper used boat...

Never pay the asking price. they will come down and probably need to anyway.
Don't buy the boat unless you sea trial it first.
Unload the boat in the water and let it just float for five minutes or so while checking out other onboard features then turn the bilge on and see if you have taken on water.
Make sure the trailer is in good shape. This a big part of the value on a older used boat.
Check the floors good. Soft floors will cost you money eventually.
After you buy the boat get a cover to keep in in good shape.

You don't have to spend a lot of money to get on the water, but you do have to be careful what you are buying.
Good luck!

 

[NRG]

In a fiberglass boat there is two BIG things to be carefull of .. ROT, and ROT, floors, and transoms, the flloor is easier to check for than the transom, but I can give you some clues on what to look for ! First check in and under every compartment.. lift the carpet if you can in compartments, take out batteries, anything that can hide rot in the floor, take a screw driver and poke arouns the floor in the compartments.. the transom, make sure the cap that covers the top of the transom is sealed well and that the aluminum or glass part of the cap is not cracked, make sure the transom when you pull on the engine dosent flex at all make sure all drain plugs are tight and sealed well.. any where water can enter it will ,, and eventually the wood core will rot. Also any boat that some one has reinforced with aluminum etc run from .. this is a sign that the transom is weak and rotting. Unless you get the boat so cheap you can afford to fix these things your self. Paying someone to fix is very expensvie 800-3000 to replace a transome, and ussually when the trasom goes it takes part of the stringers that support the floor with it.
And it dosent have to be that old of a boat to have these issues.. of course if you can find a tottally wood free boat 100% composite no wood you are better off in the long run.

But even these boats can delaminate fiberglass wasnt laid good, and it seperates between layers, or was hit so hard causes sane issue.
Aluminum boats dont have most of the issues, but they to can have rotted wood, but easier to fix and cheaper to fix wood in aluminum boats , no fiberglass to mess with.
But Alum check for loose rivets, cracks, or buy one that is all welded no rivets.

But as honky tonker said dont buy unless you are real sure what you are doing without water testing. but most boats are sold because they have issues of some sort .. but these days nore and more are being sold because of the caost to run.. why do you think you see all the 19 -21 foot boats being sold with 175-250hp engines ? GAS .. 40 gallons x 4.00 = 160.00 to fill

 

[bigsack]

honkeytonker, NRG: again thanks for the input. i'll definitely take it for a spin and check for leaks. i have always learned toward aluminum hull's, im not against fiberglass but i really don't know much about the material you know. for some reason id feel better if i ran aground in a aluminum than a fiberglass, i may be just showing my ignorance.

 

[JackG]

Not ignorance, but common sense. Go with what your comfortable with. I grew up with a homemade wood runabout, then upgraded to a fiberglass runabout. Back in the 70's in Michigan had a lite-weight canoe, then in Texas a heavy flats boat. Now I wish a had just about anything. Found one here on the forum, but couldn't lift the 85 hp motor easily and couldn't afford the lift. Now with daughter's wedding in less than 2 weeks, boats are again off the list until next year. You may want to take a knowledgeable friend from the forum with you to look at a boat, etc. before buying as they may have an unbiased view.

 

[NRG]

The best thing you can do is if you are serious about buying a boat, and have it narrowed down to one or two boats is see if the seller is willing for you to take it to a marine mechanic you know and trust, I'm sure cff members can offer suggestions on where to take it .. have them give the boat a good going over .. check compression , look at lower unit oil, etc .. they wont be able to tell you how long it will run with out issues, but they can give you a thumbs up or down if a good engine etc . It will cost you prob 75-150 depending on how much time they spend on it, but that money could save you hundreds later.
and if they will not .. then you prob need to walk away.

You could bring a compression tester with you make sure that compression is equal on all cylinders, check lower unit oil, should not be milky, and should be smooth not gritty, make sure prop is straight not chunks missing from it .. and edges smooth, and the foot should be straight too.

Should start easily, and when you test drive boat make sure you run it wide open for a couple three miles, after letting it idle at dock for a few minutes, should be no bucking, missing, and if you hear any alarms from over heating a buzzer that gets louder and louder. another thing to do is bring a laser temp sensor with you, you can borrow when free from auto parts stores with a refundable deposit.

If you remove the cover while running the engine have a friend monitor the engine temp while running wide open, of course be very very careful doing this as you could end up end the lake if not careful. and take temp at slower speeds, and idle.

For example a Johnson 1988 175 hp GOOD temp would be around 140 degrees but if your serious about buying that boat get a book for it and see what the specs call for for temps etc..

Knowledge is power, and can save you a bundle in the long run, do some research on the Internet google the brand and model of boat, or just ask here if anyone has owned that type and brand.
Dont get excited over a boat, let knowledge lead you not its glitter and sparkle .. or gadgets , make sure the hull , engine, trolling motor, or other major components are solid before you consider any bells and whistles it may have.
They are bargins to be had out there .. I have a friend who bought a 1999 20ft Ranger that had 49 hrs on it and was garage kept, for 3000 at a estate auction .. of course he bought it with out checking all these things .. but so would have I!

 

[bigsack]

good deal guys, that's why i love forums. Everybody has something to add. yeah when the time comes i'll definitely get somebody to go w/ me. now it time for me to go in to "research mode"