need help with rough running motor at high rpm

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No problem. We need to try to pinpoint what is happening. If you had 2 plug wires touching and the issue is gone, I would suggest a set of new wires. There is a possibility that the voltage was going to another cylinder, if I read the post right. Just keep us up to date!!!
 
james i email you a pic on the way my plug wires are routed what i was saying on the double fire is the timing light wire was getting too close to another wire and was showing that it was double firing but actual it was reading 2 plugs and should i change the way these plugs are routed and try that the next time im on the lake
 
james another thing i forgot to mention i had a buddy to come aver and help me with that last test u told me to do and after we did it we pulled the plug and plug wire off #3 and let it fire on the block the first time it seemed to fire weak for a couple time so we changed it to another cylinder and it fired good so we went back to 3 and it was firing good this time so i would that be the coil pack
 
They are called CDM. They have a coil and module built into 1. They are about $80 new. But you want to verify that it is a cdm before you replaced it. You stated #3 would quit flashing when it would act up. Now that you have moved it. Do the same test. If the cylinder you moved #3 coil to now quits flashing and #3 stays good then yes it is a cdm. I would run it and then seperate the plug wires if it still has issues. Hope not to confuse you any more but here is the CDM chart out of my ignition manual. You can see that it has some things like magnets under the flywheel that may be loose or broken.
 

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rgr i guess i need to check under the flywheel for the magnets and check them out and what pitch prop u think i should use on a 16ft bassboat with this motor i think the one on it isnt big enough its a 19
 
Run it again and see if it is dropping #3 cylinder. If it has moved then it will NOT be a magnet and just a cdm. It takes a special puller to remove the flywheel.

Those are not high RPM engines. It should only turn somewhere around 5400.
 
hey james i was reading my manuel and came across the accelorator pump do you think maybe this or the filter that is in these lines would be a issue ? i didnt even now this filter existed till about 30 min. ago not in any way 2nd guessing you just curious
 
emoUpsmile emoUpsmile emoUpsmile well i think we got it (me and james) smooth running ,good hole shot and topend thanks a million james couldnt done it without ya emoWorthy emoWorthy
 
nate2800 - 6/8/2009 4:08 PM emoUpsmile emoUpsmile emoUpsmile well i think we got it (me and james) smooth running ,good hole shot and topend thanks a million james couldnt done it without ya emoWorthy emoWorthy
</p>

After all the replies and interest, you're leaving the rest of us flapping in the breeze?emoScratch WHAT WAS THE SOLUTION???</p>
 
It was having a high speed miss. The miss would move around. This uses CDM modules. They are switch boxes and coil made into 1. There are 4 of them, one for each cylinder. Alot of the time 1 will make the whole system act up becasue stator volage has to pass through one to get to another. A bad CDM module can kill the whole system. We took a know good one and replaced each one, one at a time. The problem still exhisted. With the possibility of 2 bad module, we put on 4 known good ones I had. Problem still exhisted. I made a test harness to be able to sit in the passengers seat and measure voltages. Instead of buying a $100 tool I made it for $4. Sorry I'm cheap!!!! All the voltages checked to be good. These engines are know for bad triggers even though it tested ok. The thing is, it wasn't a complete failure and it would have a "glitch" and would only do it like every few seconds or so and on multiple cylinders, so the way the meters works and the samling rate of a meter, it couldn't pick it up. Plus the voltage is so erratic, that is why you HAVE to use a Peak Voltage Adaper. It stabilizes the voltage so you can get a reading, this does not allow for me to use my glitch function that would pick up a glitch which it can test down to 250 millionths of a second. He replaced the trigger and I set the timing timing on it, which was WAY high. Engine runs great. I still don't like it that it is a 2+2 system. Idles on 2 then runs on 4. Hope this answered you question!!!!
 
Thanks, James. That was a little more technical than I waswanting, but I appreciate your dedication. I have a 2+2 also- like you, I'm not real impressed with the technology. It's rough as a cob at low (sub wake) speeds- but mine does run well from 1200 RPMS to top end..
 
Sorry!! But you asked!!!! LOL!!!!

If you do alot of trolling and idling you will like the 2+2 system. Alot less fuel. Even though they still supply spark to those cylinders the bottom 2 carbs don't have a idle circuit. So only the top 2 work during idle. The other 2 are suppose to come in at around 1800. I will stop there!!!!


that is a good question!!!!
 
emoBang emoBang emoBang emoBang emoBang emoBang emoBang
well went to wt this morning and guess what bog bog bog wont open up again its like it aint getting enough fuel,talked to wrenchen2 he said try some sea foam so thats next i guess
 
The other day it ran flawlessly for how many miles??? Do you have a portable tank or acess to one?? Give me a ring tomorrow. Later man!
 
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