New style transom saver

[smokinbasser]

I have seen variations on this "thing" and my 1st reaction is that it would be better called a transom trasher. Using a conventional transom saver puts the weight of the engine partially on the trailer crossbeam, and relieves the weight of the engine on the transom. This new gadget actually increases the weight of the engine on the transom, not much but any increase is unacceptable IMO. I want my boat and engine securely connected to my trailer and moving as one item. I am at the max hp for my boat and I would imagine about the max weight hanging on the back end, I'll stay with the conventional transom saver, although if I see one of the new ones with the shock absorber action it might get my wallet open and ol george squintin at the bright lights. I should mention that for me the transom saver goes on after the bow winch strap pulls the boat up into the centering roller and a bow saver strap goes from the eye straight down to the trailer frame, having the boat move forward after the TS is installed aint gonna happen unless i have made a serious driving/towing error, knock on wood!!!!

 

[blindarrow]

Doc1 - 4/8/2008 12:04 AM

Blindarrow, you need a transom saver bad even if you don't have power trim, when your motor is all the way up with the little tab locked in the motor is just twisting your transom up and down like a spring board. Put a transom saver on it and let the end of your trailer absorb the bounce.

Here's the thing though.. with power trim, you are putting a constant downward pressure on your motor, keeping the transom saver in place.. mine doesn't.

What procedure do I need to follow with a transom saver and no power trim?

 

[Luketrician]

that wedge gizmo doesn't stop the motor from flexing the transom when in transit.The traditional style TS prevents the motor from flexing the transom.

The less that motor moves around the longer the boat should hold up.

Purty much cut and dry IMO...

 

[Guest]

IMO, no reason for a transom saver unless you must tilt your motor for ground clearance purposes, then a transom saver helps to reduce road bounce.

 

[Flippen*1]

Think about the stress angles of towing as opposed to being on plane. When towing, motor is partially up and supported by a traditional TS, when you bounce on the road the leverage is driven into the trailer crossbeam, which absorbs or transfers the stress, especially when the boat is strapped down, very important of course. When planed out, the motor is parallel to the transom, and is resting on the motor pistons and trim motor, these are very strong elements, added by every manufacturer to absorb the stress of rough water. The way that each situation puts stress on the transom are different. Without a TS for towing, 90% 0f the stress is on the top of the transom, not a good thing, so always use one. But, when on plane, most of the stress is actually at the BOTTOM of the transom, not the top. Most transoms fail structurally because the bottom has got water rot and can't support the torque of the motor pushing against it. When constructed, transoms are made to transfer the stress straight to the boat frame, thus reducing stress on the top. Once water gets in there and makes it soft, which can actually take a long time, it loses the ability to transfer the stress, thereby letting the top of the transom flex, which aint a good thing. Really, it's all geometry.
Sorry to be so long winded. Fact is (for me) always use a traditional - to the trailer - TS. All this typing has made me thirsty, I think a cold one is in orderemoSmile emoSmile emoSmile

 

[Luketrician]

Flippen*1 - 4/10/2008 12:29 PM

Think about the stress angles of towing as opposed to being on plane. When towing, motor is partially up and supported by a traditional TS, when you bounce on the road the leverage is driven into the trailer crossbeam, which absorbs or transfers the stress, especially when the boat is strapped down, very important of course. When planed out, the motor is parallel to the transom, and is resting on the motor pistons and trim motor, these are very strong elements, added by every manufacturer to absorb the stress of rough water. The way that each situation puts stress on the transom are different. Without a TS for towing, 90% 0f the stress is on the top of the transom, not a good thing, so always use one. But, when on plane, most of the stress is actually at the BOTTOM of the transom, not the top. Most transoms fail structurally because the bottom has got water rot and can't support the torque of the motor pushing against it. When constructed, transoms are made to transfer the stress straight to the boat frame, thus reducing stress on the top. Once water gets in there and makes it soft, which can actually take a long time, it loses the ability to transfer the stress, thereby letting the top of the transom flex, which aint a good thing. Really, it's all geometry.
Sorry to be so long winded. Fact is (for me) always use a traditional - to the trailer - TS. All this typing has made me thirsty, I think a cold one is in orderemoSmile emoSmile emoSmile

Flippen*1 has nailed it, great post bud.emoToast

 

[Flippen*1]

You just want some of my ribs on SaturdayemoLaugh and you'll get some!emoToast emoToast

 

[Luketrician]

sticky fingers ain't got nuthin on you buddy!emoToast

 

[chickman]

Flippen*1 - 4/10/2008 12:29 PM

Think about the stress angles of towing as opposed to being on plane. When towing, motor is partially up and supported by a traditional TS, when you bounce on the road the leverage is driven into the trailer crossbeam, which absorbs or transfers the stress, especially when the boat is strapped down, very important of course. When planed out, the motor is parallel to the transom, and is resting on the motor pistons and trim motor, these are very strong elements, added by every manufacturer to absorb the stress of rough water. The way that each situation puts stress on the transom are different. Without a TS for towing, 90% 0f the stress is on the top of the transom, not a good thing, so always use one. But, when on plane, most of the stress is actually at the BOTTOM of the transom, not the top. Most transoms fail structurally because the bottom has got water rot and can't support the torque of the motor pushing against it. When constructed, transoms are made to transfer the stress straight to the boat frame, thus reducing stress on the top. Once water gets in there and makes it soft, which can actually take a long time, it loses the ability to transfer the stress, thereby letting the top of the transom flex, which aint a good thing. Really, it's all geometry.
Sorry to be so long winded. Fact is (for me) always use a traditional - to the trailer - TS. All this typing has made me thirsty, I think a cold one is in orderemoSmile emoSmile emoSmile

If that is all true then why does Evinrude recommend you use their built in trailering bracket when towing your boat instead of a Transom Saver?

 

[Luketrician]

I don't have an answer for that question Chickman...but for me personally I don't want my motor shakin around the top part of my transom when I am trailered up...

but then again..my transom isn't made out of wood. To each his own I reken

 

[Luketrician]

I don't have an answer for that question Chickman...but for me personally I don't want my motor shakin around the top part of my transom when I am trailered up...

but then again..my transom isn't made out of wood. To each his own I reken

 

[jcv]

Nobody has been able to answer chickman's question of:
""If that is all true then why does Evinrude recommend you use their built in trailering bracket when towing your boat instead of a Transom Saver?""
Any Evinrude pros out there to help out?
I have an Evinrude myself and am still wondering whether to use the traditional TS vs the trailoring bracket.
From what I have read so far I conclude the trailering bracket is not as good as the traditional TS.
Any engineers out there with the real answer to chickman's original question?
The CFF is a great web-site.
We all learn from everyones input.
Glad to be a member.

 

[SNUFFY]

I would say the Evindude recommendation has more to do with protecting their Trim and Tilt mechanism while under warranty than taking the stess off the transom of a boat they aren`t warrantying(?).
By putting the motor on the trailering bracket ...it isolates the trim cylinders from any stess.
My guess.

 

[jcv]

Snuffy,
Sounds like you found the real answer!
Time for me to buy a transom savor.

 

[Nickajack Angler]

Answer a question for me fella's.... I see a lot of people use the TS that rests on the roller of the trailer. Some put it down lightly on the TS, and some really crank down the trim to get it "tight". Which way is the proper way to support the motor with the TS???

 

[chickman]

A transom saver doesn't take any weight off the transom at all, like many think that it does. If a motor weighs 500# and that weight is on the transom, if you tilt the motor out and brace it with a transom saver it still weighs 500#, you haven't taken any weight at all off the transom. It just braces the lower unit against the trailer (which in my opinion is bad.) Every time you hit a big bump the shock is transmitted to the lower unit of the motor.

With the LocknStow (or your factory bracket), the motor is "locked" to the boat and the boat/motor are "one piece" and not "connected" to the trailer in any way.

The thing that guys forget is that your transom will take far more abuse from that 500# motor and the hp/torque of that motor when you're running on the lake, jumping wakes, running in rough water, etc. Way more than it will ever get from towing down the road, regardless of the bumps that you might hit.

 

[jcv]

Has anyone tried the Swivl-Eze Shock-Eze Transom Saver?

 

[minner]

chickman - 4/13/2008 1:31 PM A transom saver doesn't take any weight off the transom at all, like many think that it does. If a motor weighs 500# and that weight is on the transom, if you tilt the motor out and brace it with a transom saver it still weighs 500#, you haven't taken any weight at all off the transom. It just braces the lower unit against the trailer (which in my opinion is bad.) Every time you hit a big bump the shock is transmitted to the lower unit of the motor. With the LocknStow (or your factory bracket), the motor is "locked" to the boat and the boat/motor are "one piece" and not "connected" to the trailer in any way. The thing that guys forget is that your transom will take far more abuse from that 500# motor and the hp/torque of that motor when you're running on the lake, jumping wakes, running in rough water, etc. Way more than it will ever get from towing down the road, regardless of the bumps that you might hit.

</p>



You should go back and read my post.</p>

 

[jcv]

I called Ranger Boats yesterday and spoke with 2 technicians about the subject of transom savers.
Long story short,
Ranger recommends using a transom saver.
Ranger recommends a transom saver that attaches from the trailer to the lower unit versus any other type when it comes to protecting the ""transom"".
If you would like to hear it for yourself the numbers are:
800-724-7273 or 870-453-2222 and ask for technical assistance.
Just thought I'd share this info with all our great forum members.
Good luck.

 

[Flippen*1]

Exactly, JCV. The original post was about saving the stress on a transom, not anything else. Nothing against any other posts here, but it's all leverage and geometry, these things work for a reason. Happy trails.