wrechen2 ?

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redhunterz71

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
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i have a 2000 175 johnson it is acting up on me. it starts fine but when you give it gas to take off its starts bogging down and dies. and when you do get it to go and your up on plane it starts acting like your giving it gas and letting off the gas. then it clears up and does fine.it has done this some in the past few years but now its every time u take it out it does it. and it doesnt do it on the first run of the day only after you have ran it some that day. any ideas?
 
not a pro by any means but my old boat did this and i put a new primer bulb on it and it fixed the problem.. you guys need to leave Wrenchin alone so he can finish my boat LOLL
 
Clean the carbs, the jets are about stopped up. This is caused from old gas staying in the carbs and the oil has turned to snot and stopped the jets up.
 
redhunterz71 - 5/24/2009 8:52 PMit doesnt do it on the first run of the day only after you have ran it some that day. any ideas?
If the carbs were stopped up it would do it all the time.......A stator (common on those engines) will give the same symptoms of running out of fuel, bogg, and die. These will tend to act up with some heat build up from running. These can be tested with DVA and I have the optical sensor test to check the sensor and they sync from the encoder. If it does it alot, it should be fairly easy to diagnois.</p>

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JDK,</p>

Hope to have all parts in hand Thursday!!!!</p>
 
I bet it does it worse on hot days right? It sounds like it is doing what we call heatsoaking. We have usually fixed this with a minor carburater ajustment to richen the motor up and a small timing adjustment. I've seen alot of this with the later model 60 degree engines. The engine when it gets hot is not getting enough fuel to get out of the hole. If you bring it to marine specialty i believe i can take care of that problem for you.
 
......Read his thread again, he is having more than a hole shot issue.....That sounds like masking the true problem...... The idle screws are set from the factory and the timing should be no more than *20 on his year model. It worked great from the factory and up untill this point. Why should they be adjusted other than what OMC designed them to be???? I have a modified *60 running around that if you advance the timing anymore than *20 I GURANTEE you will melt it down because of the compression it makes. The highest factory timing I have seen on ANY of the V-4/V-6 *60 is *22 with most later models only being *20. I bet there is a reason they dropped the timing back to *20.

The high speed circuit is not adjustable(unless you replace the jets) and the idle srews should not be adjusted, that is why they put the goop in the heads. You have to beat it out to adjust them. If it does that means it has varnish build up and would need the passages cleaned not adjusted. A idle circuit DOES affect the hole shot but would ususally effect it all the time and would not be just happening after a run. I have seen thing from plugs, too high of float settings, and to eletrical issues. They are alot of simple test THEY can do to help identify the problem. Of course these are MY OPINIONS......

When I worked at Prebul, we had cars come in that someone had removed the cap on the throttle plate set screw and turned it to "mask" the real issue and we would repair what was really wrong. Sometimes it would be a IAC, Carbon build up in the passages, pcm would need to be reset due to battery going dead, bad battery (low voltage affecting the computer), a stopped up PCV valve, and sometime a bad PCM. Sometimes have to replace the throttle body because they damaged it removing the srew cap. This ususally ended up costing them more in the long run.
 
wrechin2 - 5/25/2009 12:11 AM

</p>

</p>

JDK,</p>

Hope to have all parts in hand Thursday!!!!</p>
</p>

</p>

Awesome!!! cant wait to get this boat in the water.. yesterday i just sat in it in the driveway for about 30 mins LOL.. man never realized how bad it sucks going from having a boat to having nothing.. but it is going to be worth it when all the work is done! </p>

Thanks again for everything
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No problem man!!!! Wife caught me once sitting in my race boat making engine sounds!!!! LOL!!! It was embarrasing!!!!!!!!!
 
Well wrenchin this is what bombardier told us to do when we where having this problem with brand new engines out of the box. If you will read it he says thaT It always done it but it is getting worse. I have been working at a bombardier dealer for eight years and i have never replaced a stator on a 60 degree engine. The epa made them lean their engines down so much that in hot weather they had a problem coming out of the hole after they heat up. I was not talking about high end timing i was talking about when the timing advanced and picked up the cam follower. They even had some kind of stuff in the adjustments that you had to dig out before you could adjust them. I could give you probably 25 different customers that had simular problems that richening the carbs just a 8th or quarter turn would fix it. Again this fix to this problem come from bombardier service technitions!
 
hey wrechin2 i would like 4 u to work on my boat if you have time. where are u located. and what is your telephone number.
 
Jason,
Here is the deal..... I can understand these adjustments being made on a new engine. We had similar instances at Chrysler, BUT we are talking about a 9 year old engine that DID NOT have these issues untill recently. I would not associate that adjustment to a engine it doesn't apply to. I don't doubt that it may have "fixed" the problem on older engines, it is just masking the real problem. They probably have some varnish in the air passages and that is why they are acting up. Then by adjusting the idle screws you are getting the air flow back to specs by backing the screw out. It is just my opinion to take the intake off and clean the passages. This will do the same thing only by removing the build up which will still be there and create problems later. How does this repair the "surge" he is describing????? But this is only MY OPINION..... Do as you want...

Redhunterz71,
Check your PM for my number. We will just have to hook up one day and see what is going on. If it can be dupliated that makes it easier to pinpoint it.
 
James no more work til you finish mine!!! haha guys i would highly recommend James to anyone not only does he know his stuff but he takes the time to explain what he is doing so you have a understanding of what is going on
 
hey wrechin2 someone told me to try changing my prime bulb and i did but it was still doing the same thing. we was trying to take off and it was bogging like it wasnt getting no gas so my brother pumped the bulb while i was trying to make it go and the motor picked up and took off. and while we was going up river the motor started surging like u was giving it gas and letting off and my brother crawled back there agin and pumped the bulb and it started running fine. so for some reason it not getting the gas like it should. just woundering if u might know what the deal is ?
 
Sounds like a fuel pump is going down or has a hole in the line sucking air. They do have rebuild kits for it .It is a VRO the pump and is around $400 or was told last friday that the price was going up to that real soon. I have not price a kit or personally have not built one as I ususally go electric for the cost and sometimes they have mechanical failures inside causing them to be very difficult to repair. If it is just a diaphram busted, it should be rebuildable. Just my thoughts.....
 
LIKE I SAID BEFORE GET A MERCURY EFI AND SET THE WATER ON FIRE emoBang emoBang emoBang emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoAngel emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke emoPoke emoToast emoToast emoToast emoThumbsup emoThumbsup emoThumbsup emoGeezer emoGeezer emoGeezer emoGeezer emoThanks emoThanks emoThanks emoPlease emoPlease emoPlease emoApplause emoApplause emoApplause emoTskTsk emoTskTsk emoTskTsk
 
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