Getting there slowly.... boat restoration

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danrnsmyth

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2014
Messages
236
Location
marion va
https://us-east-1-02640025-view.men...dW0uY29tL2ltYWdlcy9lbW90aWNvbnMvYmFuZy5naWY~I bought an old boat in June and have been working on it and doing what my limited level of expertise allows. So far wet sanded three areas on the boat , buffed and polished and waxed the hull, and cleaned the carpet and then reglued the carpet after getting a little carried away with the pressure setting on the pressure washer and the age of the carpet glue. Had to reglue all the seals on the hatches for the dry storage areas. Replaced the termination board under the console and snipped off the old terminals and put new ones on. Replaced the warning horn, rewired the trailer and put LED lights on it. Had to replace the brake actuator and solenoid and the brake lines were rusty and bought a roll of brake lines and fittings. Got an education on 3/8ths SAE threads versus NPT or tapered NPT as some of those adaptors around the quick connect or disconnect converted brake lines SAE thread to NPT, previous owner had simply used a couple of rolls of teflon tape and forced some .405 1/8th npt into some 3/8ths or .375 brake connections. He is now in a nursing home and not doing well. Made up new brake lines after a three day learning curve on how to make a decent double flare with that little hand tool that seems to always want to walk down the vise holding the brake line when you try to tightened it to create the flares. Rebuilt the calipers with Orings and dust seals. Had not seen any Kelsey -Hayes Brake Calipers since the 70's but found out they were used on this trailer as well as cars like a 1992 Plymouth Acclaim...found some calipers on Rock Auto loaded on closeout for 14.80 after I have spent more than that on Orings and seals..insert head bang here..... Rebuild the jack and the winch on the trailer.
The boat had sat for years under a cover, so the bunks were gone and had to be replaced and for the running boards I got the metal posts from Ranger and put in trex using their 1/2 inch facia boards. Replaced the rollers on the trailers.
The EFI motor cranks easily and runs and idles ok and I have pulled the seats and replaced all gas lines (2 tanks) and the fuel feed hoses that are like wrestling a python, replaced the gear lube and fuel filter and probe. I am getting compression reading on 107 /108 so the motor probably has some wear but if things work out and the boat shapes up as I think it could I may look at a 175 pro xs down the road if necessary. ~
 

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one more pic, and man these things set high on the trailer and debating trying to cut off some of the posts evenly and drop it some. The 150 has four blade prop and hole shot is manageable but not sure what top end it has because I have been very cautious with running the motor at any high rpms after it has set so long..
 

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yep, thanks ...I left that one off the list of things, but it has been replaced. I have replaced fuel lines from the tanks to the cowl, I am wondering of the gas and oil lines on the motor should be replaced as well and if their is a way to check to function or spray pattern on the fuel injectors. I drained to old gas and an old oil and put in fresh oil and fuel with some seafoam.
 
Yes Dean that is the plan, I have been up there three times, once with each of my two brothers in their Rangers, a 188 and a 391V, and then once with a friend from work in a 521, so kinda got sold on them and bought this one from a gentleman who health had not allowed him to use it in years. It needed a lot of work but the hull was solid and interior was good. I had a trip of a lifetime there in June, put three sets of trebles on a gunfish..caught some really pretty smallmouth. Thanks for your help on that
 
Very pretty boat. Looks like you done a great job. You live in pretty part of the world too. I have family in the Hillsville and Laurel Fork areas. Rangers sure have a nice ride.....
 
Ranger had their reasons for that hull to sit high on the trailer, best left alone.

Bill
 
danrnsmyth - 9/6/2019 3:39 PM

yep, thanks ...I left that one off the list of things, but it has been replaced. I have replaced fuel lines from the tanks to the cowl, I am wondering of the gas and oil lines on the motor should be replaced as well and if their is a<font size="2"> way to check to function or spray pattern on the fuel injectors</font>. I drained to old gas and an old oil and put in fresh oil and fuel with some seafoam.
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These 2 outfits can test and service those injectors - Tony Brucato and EuropeanAM. Both are good folks. Contact info for both can be found over on Bass Boat Central. That's a VERY nice project you've got going.
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Brian at Duck River Marine in Columbia,TN can also test injectors. I think it is $17 per injector if I remember correctly. He has some videos of it on his facebook and instagram.
 
thanks guys, my concern was it the boat had sat so long the fuel may have turned to varnish or something and I hate to do all this work and have a motor that may have some life left ruined because the fuel in the fuel system had created some gum or varnish and so my thoughts were to see if I could have someone decarb the motor and replaced the fuel and oil lines if they thought necessary and check and/or clean the injector. Are the injectors complicated or hard to remove or do the shops do that...and the you ship the injectors to these folks?
Also after replacing the water pump I cleaned the hubs and put a new set of Timkens in both sides and cleaned the old grease out and used a Cerulean grease. On trick I found was with the rental tool from Auto Zone you can put those races in the freezer for a little while and then use those tools and seat those races very easily . The tool has different size dies for the most common races and it will tap in very evenly..still preloaded the bearing but a wonderful tool they have.
 
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