Two Engineers + One Idea = 6 Hours of Pain

[Bprice]

I'll be the first to admit, I am very tough on my equipment (truck, boat, tackle, reels, gear, etc). I'm the guy that has broken 5 rods in the last 2 years, lost 4 pairs of sunglasses, has an embarrassing dent in my truck that i dont care about fixing, hasn't washed his truck in 2 years, and isn't bothered that his boats gel coat is fading. I guess you could call me the baby EricM, but better looking.</p>

</p>

Well I decided I needed to do some maintence on my outboard last night. After getting some tips here on the forum i decided to change my lower unit oil and replace my water impeller. Thanks to Wrenchin for really helping me out with the manual, and I wish I would of read it first rather than figuring it out.</p>

</p>

So first things first, I drain the lower unit oil. It did not look good. No metal shavings, but it looked like diarrhea, and I'm pretty sure thats not a good thing. Some of the oil still had a green hue to it, but I know I'm going to be shot here, but it hasn't been changed in 2 years. Yeah I know, I'm a bad boy and an idiot. I know better now. </p>

</p>

So we decide to run to Wal-Mart while it drains and pick up some stuff. Note to self: I should of checked to see how much lube the lower unit held before purchasing.</p>

</p>

Get back and decide to take the LU off first because how hard can it be right? So we unbolt everything thinking that is all it took. Of course, wrong, and we should of read the manual. So we bolt it all back up and read the manual.... who knew it needed to be in gear and the shaft pin needed to be removed. So we did that. Finally after 2 hours of cussing, straining, eating pizza, farting, andoverall anger we get the lower unit it off. Now its time for the goodies, I wanted to see an impeller that looked on its death bed. So I remove the casing and there she is, a beautiful PERFECT impeller. I fall to my knees screaming and crying, asking myself why why why... but hey, at least I checked. </p>

</p>

So we lubed up all the necessary areas and prepared to put the LU back on. First I will say this, I will never go through child birth, but I am pretty confident that putting the lower unit back on is similar to child birth. I call Minner up for some tips after 4 failed attempts.</p>

</p>

Bprice: "Hey man, I took my lower unit off"</p>

Minner: "What the heck are you doing?"</p>

Bprice: "Being an idiot"</p>

Minner: "I knew that, but what you are doing"</p>

Bprice: "Wanted to replace my impeller, but my old one was perfect"</p>

Minner: "haha!"</p>

Bprice: "How do I get this $*&&*@&*@ thing back on"</p>

Minner: "You just got work it, play with the prop, and talk sweet to it" (in a sleezy creepy way that Minner has perfected)</p>

</p>

So after 30 minutes of carressing the lower unit and talking nice to it, we finally got all the shafts in the right holes and was able to bolt it back in. Got the shaft rod pins back in place, lubing all fittings, etc... checked the throttle and the engine was engaging in forward and reverse just fine. </p>

</p>

So went to the deed of filling up the LU with oil, and wanting to go home. First off, I hate that design on for the lower unit oil. It seems that it could be designed a lot more functional, but oh well... i have two nice tubes of lube to fill her up, first one goes in, its not filled.... ok no sweat, thats why i bought two... halfway through the 2nd one my backside is drawing up, and.... its empty too... no more lube. AAAAAAAAH!!!! Bolt her up, drive to wal-mart by more lube, and finish the job. </p>

</p>

Moral of my story is, there is too much Lube, Shafts, Gears, and holes involved in this job. My hat goes off to all outboard mechanics. </p>

</p>

At least I can say I've done this now, and for some stupid reason I signed up to help my buddy Randy do this on his new to him boat next week.</p>

Minner, wanna come help? </p>

 

[mallardecho]

So did you replace the impellar while you were in there?

 

[bprice_paterfamilias]

you forgot to mention that you have an infinite amount of patience......and minner forgot to tell you that you have to hold your mouth just right

 

[Guest]

If u have never done it before it can be a challenge getting the case back on. How many times did the exhaust can fall out of place? Its easier if u use a left handed monkey wrench.

 

[honkytonker26]

mallardecho - 4/2/2009 10:08 AM

So did you replace the impellar while you were in there?

Thats what I'm wondering too. No way you go through all that and not change it.

 

[Bprice]

You know whats funny... no i didn't change it. We saved it for my buddy's boat.

 

[EricM]

"I guess you could call me the baby EricM, but better looking."


I'VE BEEN BESMIRCHED!!!!!!!!!! emoEek emoEek

(and deservedly so,,,,,,,,)



.

 

[SpurHunter]

Been there, done that, (just not with LU). emoBang emoBang emoBang
Glad you got it worked out in the end.

 

[Bprice]

Pic

 

[jon the fisherman]

next time, when the drive shaft will not line up, try bumping the starter......or just take it to someone who does it for a living

 

[Bprice]

JTF, novel idea about the professional, but i had to try to for myself.

 

[tyler ware]

Been there done that, twice now. TRy doing it yourself and having to use a floor jack to lift and hold the lower end while you line everything up. Good job getting it done.

 

[minner]

Bprice - 4/2/2009 8:56 AM

Minner, wanna come help? </p>

</p>

</p>

Man I'd love to but........I think I am changing the blinker fluid in my truck that day.</p>

 

[Bprice]

undependable!

 

[dragfish]

Brandon, it's not rocket science-that was your problem! My theory, if it's not broke-don't break it. emoBang

 

[wrechin2]

MAN...I couln't tell you how many boats that have overheat problems that I have changed the W/P on that had impellers that looked "GOOD". The problem is they become less flexable and can not stay in contact with the cup and it loses volume. If you noticed the hole was ofset in the housing. That makes the impeller "pockets" change shapes. When goes from small to large it creates a vacuum and pulls water in the pocket then when the pocket goes from large to small it creates pressure and moves the water. The impeller gets memory and can not work properly. That is why most FACTORY manuals want it to be replaced annually. It is to prevent problems. If the ears break off and a get moved into the engine you havet to take alot of stuff apart to get them back to keep them from lodging and overheating the engine. Have you priced a reman powerhead??? Example 93-2001 150 carb V-6 OMC 60* looper is $4644 just for the reman engine. Not to include install. How much was that water pump impeller???? Which would be cheaper??? Of course if it is rebuilt it can still run 2-3K! Depending on what was damaged. Just my opinion.

 

[Bprice]

Wow, thanks for putting me in my place Wrenchin!

 

[wrechin2]

LOL! I would hate to see you burn it up. Just letting you know what I have seen. Looks can be deceiving!!(spelling)

 

[Guest]

I can c replacing a merc pump every year but not an omc pump. I've seen them last up to ten years! I wouldn't recomend waiting that long. I would say every three years would be good. Temp sensors work pretty good nowadays. Just always make sure its peeing good when you first crank it. And make sure your horn beeps when u turn the key on! Thats a must!

 

[wrechin2]

Explain? What make the rubber on a merc pump any different than the rubber on a OMC impeller??? Size??? Mercury has the ALPH pumps on the 3.0's that are as big as the OMC's and they are still a annual service. OMC does not have a set time to change them, I personally see annually or every 2 years at most. I have changed 3 omc pumps this year for CFF members ad they all 3 stated they pee'd alot harder.Isn't that the whole point? Everyone has their own thoughts on it.I pesonally hate to tell someone it is going to be a few thousand to get their boat back on the water because a water pump failure has damaged their engines.Yes, granted the temp switches/buzzers work well, if they work, the boat I installed a lower on today the buzzer was inop and I explained to him howto install a alarm on it, but it is hard to hear a buzzer at 80mph! Not all OMC's have self checking buzzers, smart tach. The older X-flow rely solely on temp switches and have to be manually tested.I have flashing 10MM LED's I put on for my "older" customers so they can seeit instead of relying on hearing it. I have seen merc pumps go that long also. But does that mean it is good pratice. Have you ever seen the impellers come apart??? I have had to take engines apart and exhaust adapters apart to get the pieces of rubber out. A $30 pump would have prevented that. Just my .02