Wrenchin 2, I need some help

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We need to look to see if there is another issue. It may be a issue with the power head or a injection system. </p>

IF and let me stress IF..........it is the one with low porting, then it would need torn down and be ported to the correct porting and then rings, gaskets, ect. </p>

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If you have to sleeve each cylinder, you are looking at about $275-300 PER cylinder to have them sleeved then rings, gaskets, ect. </p>
 
ok, thanks. I will call you next week and see what day will be good for you and I will bring it over and let you run that program on it and then maybe you will be able to tell more about it when you see it yourself.
 
My main concern is, that since it IS a 200hp powerhead, and I'm runnning everything else as 225 H.O.( EMM, etc.) that it might cause some damage to the powerhead while I'm running it this way.
 
The biggest thing is that it is that is will be flooding due to the extra fuel and the ability of not being able to use it. AGAIN if it is a issue with the port timing.
 
Wrenchin, I just read the post about the 200 to 250 rebuild. I'm hoping you can work some kind of miracle on mine when you check it. I hate to tear down that practically brand new powerhead. Maybe there is something we can do without doing that. The only days this week I can't bring it over is Tueday and Friday. Pre-fishing Tuesday for tourny Friday. Would love to maybe have things better by Friday. If you could, let me know what day is good for you. Thanks
 
Wrenchin, a guy on another forum is telling me that if I keep running my 200hp powerhead with my 225 components, it will damage the powerhead. Will it or won't it?
 
Another question wrenchin. If I Increase the lift in my 26 Raker prop, what effect will it have on my boat? how will it affect hole shot, top end speed, etc? I almost have to top out on rpms to get the bow up like it should be.
 
Don't think that it could because it is just adding additional fuel that isn't being burned. If it is what we are thinking it is. If it is a injector issue, then yes it could hurt it.

With additional cupping it will lift the boat better but create more of a "BITE" so the RPMS should come down. On the bottom end, the hole shot may suffer due to spooling up RPMS being limited from a better "BITE". Most of the time when a prop slips badly out of the hole, that is one of the first thing a shop will do to a prop. It may help bottom if it is slipping badly.
 
I didn't really think so because it should just send the unburned fuel out the exhaust, shouldn't it? He said that it would cause excessive carbon and stuck rings and that it was only a matter of time before it blew. I didn't know if adding lift to my prop would help, but performance prop said if it didn't lift like I wanted to bring it back and they would change it. just thought it might help a little.
 
Oh yeah, He said I would have to reprogram my ECU with the model and serial number from a scrapped 200 or just buy another ECU for a 200hp. That was the only fix without tearing it down and rebuilding it. If we did tear it down and port and rebuild it, what kind of price am I looking at?
 
The thing about carbon build up is it can be reversed with products like seafoam and such. Which a decarbon should be done yearly. The carbon will cause the ring not to move and will case leakage. I have never seen one mechanically blow from carbon build up, just a loss of bottom end power.
 
Does Sta-bil do the same thing as seafoam? I use marine formula Sta-bil every so often just in case I get gas that has ethanol. The places I get it are not supposed to have ethanol but you never know. I was wondering what it would cost to port and rebuild my engine. If it doesn't cost too much, I might just get you to do it before long if you're interested. Also, he said that with the extra fuel, it would be running rich. I may be wrong, but I think of fuel rich being more like oil lean. If you have enough oil, it shouldn't be a real problem, should it? My fishing partner said the only thing he could think of is that it might cause extra heat and cause failure. But if the gas is not burning, then there shouldn't be extra heat.
 
Oh, and how important is it to run evinrude products like carbon guard and 2+4 fuel conditioner in my engine? Do they need to be run all the time? I have been running 89 octane gas, but pretty sure I need to be running 93 octane.
 
rick09_99 - 4/1/2010 1:15 PM Does Sta-bil do the same thing as seafoam? I use marine formula Sta-bil every so often just in case I get gas that has ethanol. The places I get it are not supposed to have ethanol but you never know. I was wondering what it would cost to port and rebuild my engine. If it doesn't cost too much, I might just get you to do it before long if you're interested. Also, he said that with the extra fuel, it would be running rich. I may be wrong, but I think of fuel rich being more like oil lean. If you have enough oil, it shouldn't be a real problem, should it? My fishing partner said the only thing he could think of is that it might cause extra heat and cause failure. But if the gas is not burning, then there shouldn't be extra heat.
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If the system is LEAN it raises combustion temps and can melt pistons. When RICH (extra fuel) it will squelch the cylinder and lower the combustion temperatures. It will create soot. That is why most companies will require you to increase jet sizes (if carbureted) for warranty to keep from having a failure from a lean conditions. Your oil system is injected at 2 places, at the throttle bodies and some in with the fuel. Your oil mix is fine. </p>

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I have modified engines and had the jets so large to start with that it was doing what is refereed to a "4 stroking". This is where it only fires every other revolution just like a 4 stroke engine. It does nothing to them but makes them run like doo doo. It is alot easier to adjust a jet instead of tearing down to replace a melted piston. Fat (rich) is beautiful on most cases. </p>

As far as seafoam goes, I have found another product that is similar to seafoam but is 1/3 ($2.95) of the cost. It is a WONDERFUL cleaner. It does basicly all the same things that seafoam does but seems to be a LOT stronger and cheaper. I have had seafoam in a paint cup to remove carbon off of a piston for days with no damage to the paint cup. I used one of the same paint cups to measure out 3 oz to put in the fuel in a 4 wheeler I had gotten that had been sitting for a while. It ate the bottom out of the cup in 20 minutes!!!!!!! Ask Wes. I replaced and flushed the fuel system and the 4 wheeler was still missing and backfiring when I parked it Friday night. Saturday morning it was purring like a kitten from the time it started and all the issues were GONE!!!!! It is only to be mixed at 1OZ per gallon of 2 stroke fuel where seafoam is 2oz and not as aggressive.
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