question on after market kill switch

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striperchase

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
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Chattanooga, TN
I would like to buy an after market kill switch for my boat to be a little safer on the water. I have been looking around and can only seem to find replacement lanyards with spare keys. Any ideas where I could get the whole assembly. Also which would be better the kill switch for the ignition or an interrupter for the fuel tank and which would be easier to install. I have a 79 model merc. 65 hp.. Thanks for any information or experience with these! emoScratch
 
Re: quistion on after market kill switch

Have you tried Chattanooga fish n fun on Hixson pike, or Nichols on Dayton Blvd .. they usually have them in stock.
If they don't have them they can order for you in a day or two you will have them in your hand.

They are all pretty much the same, T&H marine , Sea Sense, Sea Choice etc etc .. some are better quality materials, but they all do the same

Kill switch for motor is the best and its easy to install, they are universal will fit any model or make
 
Most aftermarket wil have 4 pins and can be wired to either make or break a circuit when pulled. I run a electric fuel pump and I wire it to kill my electric fuel pump and kill the ignition. They are common and everywhere. You would wire it to kill the ignition. Get one and we will help you get it wired.
 
They used to carry at BPS and Cabelas .. I looked online neither had, only the replacement lanyards, I guess its been a really long time since they havent come from the factory that way lol
 
Yes It will work .. I was gonna send you a link to iboats .. but figured I needed to promote the sponsors of the site first :)

That one is ok, they have some better ones on there .. the TH Marine on there better quality but 2x the price.. but any of them will work! Ive had both of them on 2 different boats the TH Marine seems to be made better, not as cheesey as that 9.00 one
 
Re: ** NEW** question on after market kill switch

My kill switch came in the mail about a week ago but just now going to put it in today. I have two questions before I get started. #1. My ignition switch is in my throttle control box and I need to get to the wires and want to know if when I take it apart am I going to have ten springs go flying everywhere or will it pretty much stay together inside? #2 The intruction paper that came with it say to connect the red wire on the kill switch to the black and yellow wire in the throttle box in late model mercs which is what I have. So how will spliceing the kill switch into a wire break the circut and kill the engine if the original black and yellow wire is still intact won't the black and yellow wire still have current through it as long as the key is in the "run" postition? emoScratch emoScratch
 
I don't show a 65hp in 79. Post your serial number. If it stars with 43 or less it is a 76 or older. Just need to know the first two digits. It is located on top of whte steering tube.

You can run a wire from the orange wire on your switch box(unless has distributor) To the kill switch then a wire from any ground under your console as long as it is from the same battery as the engine is on. Here is a diagram for you. This is for ADI igniton system. Hope this helps.
 

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Your engine uses a a orange wire instead of a standard black/yellow wire

A ADI ignition does not supply power to switch box. When the key is in the "off" position it is actually connecting a ground to black and yellow wire. When you turn it to the "run" position, you are opening the circuit. Once the engine starts you can unplugg the harness to the engine and it will run all day with nothing attached. It makes it's own voltage via the stator, trigger, and coils. If it has a distributor it is a different story. I can supply you with that information also. HOPE THIS HELPS!!!!
 
Forgive my ignorance but about how many numbers should the serial number be I found quite a few numbers most of them are 8 digits none of which start with 43 or lower?
 
the serial numer is usually 7 digits long. If you get in the boat and look at the engine where the front cover goes on then look down you will see a plate on the steering tube. Here is pic. If you have that round about year model. It may be newer.
 

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That is a 74 Model. It has Type III distributor. The simpliest thig to do is run a wire from the brown post of your switch box (side the distributor is connected on) and run it to the kill switch. Then a ground from under the console to the other terminal. Some kill switches use 4 terminals. With the Lanyard in it 2 are open and 2 are closed. You want to put these on the 2 that are open when the lanyard is installed. The mercury switch does the same thing and will kill the engine if trim angle is high. IE if you hit something and it flips the engine in the boat. That is why it is grounded. Hope this helps!!!
 

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The distributor ignition CDI ignition uses power to turn on the Switch box. You can see by the key code (next to the shifter in the diagram) that when the key is on it has continuity beween A and F. A is red with 12 volts and white goes to the lower pin on the switch box. (side with 4 terminals). If you want to install it inline, you would need to put it on the white wire and when the lanyard is installed and has 4 terminal you want it to be closed. So depending on where you hook it up, makes a different which terminals you put them on.This is different from the ADI ignitions. Hope this helps.

On ground side (1st and easiest option) put on "open" side with lanyard installed
On power side (2nd optiion and have to open the box) you will put on the "closed" side with lanyard istalled.
 
Ok great thanks wrenchin2 I'm going to print this diagram. I bought a TH Marine kill switch that only has two wires in the back. One red and one black, it is just a toggle switch with a cover over it so the lanyard when pulled out forces the switch down. Thanks again for all the help. emoWorthy
 
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